8. Weed one last time. Do a thorough weeding of perennial beds now. You may be surprised at how weeds can take over during the cool weather of fall and early spring when perennials are dormant. Then apply a 2- or 3-inch layer of bark mulch or pine straw over the beds. Apply fresh much around trees, too. Remove and compost some of the old mulch, if necessary, to keep the mulch layer just a few inches deep. Any deeper and it can suffocate roots. Placing landscape fabric beneath mulch helps control weeds while allowing air and water to reach the soil.
9. Gather fallen leaves. You can leave a light scattering of leaves on the lawn and mow over them to add organic matter and nutrients. However, you'll want to use a sturdy rake to gather and compost a thick layer; otherwise, the leaves can smother the grass. Whatever you do, don't throw them away! Add them to your compost pile or simply pile them up in a corner. They'll decompose into "fertilizer" rich in nutrients and organic matter, which you can spread in beds next spring.
10. Plan a fall project. The cool temperatures of fall are perfect for building that patio, pergola, or trellis you've always wanted. Take a camera wherever you go and take snapshots of structures and plantings you like so you can replicate them in your own garden. Plant weatherproof containers with cool-season annual flowers, such as mums; plan to swap in evergreen boughs decorated with outdoor lights for the holidays.
Think of autumn as a time for "spring cleaning" your garden. In your house, spring cleaning helps you shake off the cobwebs of winter and cleanse your house of the clutter and chaos. Fall garden cleanup serves the same purpose. It's a time to remove old plants, rake up leaves, do one last weeding, and prepare beds for their winter nap. It's also a good time to look back over the gardening season to see what you'll do differently next year, and to plan some fall landscape projects. With this in mind, here's a list of ten tasks to do this fall. You'll thank yourself next spring!
1. Remove spent plants and other garden debris. Annual vegetables and flowers are winding down in fall. Once you've harvested the last crop or plants stop producing, pull the plants, shake off excess soil from the roots, and add them to your compost pile. Discard anything that looks diseased or infested with insects. Replant ornamental beds with fall annuals, such as pansies or mums. Use Glad trash bags to gather and haul materials to your compost pile. Or, use paper lawn bags and add the filled bag to the pile - the paper bag will decompose, too!
2. Clean, sharpen, and oil hand tools. Use a stiff brush to clean soil off trowels and shovels, then apply a thin coat of oil and store in a dry place for the winter. Clean and sharpen pruners and loppers. Take an inventory of your hand tools to see what's missing and make a note to add Fiskars hand tools to your holiday wish list.
3. Organize your tool shed. Build or buy something for storing tools, such as the Rubbermaid Big Max Storage Building. Hang long-handled tools from hooks or nails; store small tools in a covered container. Gather errant seed packets and decide which ones to keep and which ones to toss. Place birdseed in a squirrel-proof container. Store all fertilizers and pesticides properly - the labels will tell you how - out of the reach of animals and children.
4. Prune trees and shrubs. Prune diseased and damaged branches and remove tree branches that could break under the weight of heavy snow or ice. Once tea roses go dormant, prune back their canes and apply protective mulch. In general, it's best to wait until late winter or early spring for heavy pruning, especially in regions with harsh winters. (If you prune in fall the plant may produce new growth that will be nipped by the cold.) Wait to prune spring-flowering shrubs until after they blossom.
5. Acclimate houseplants and bring indoors. You're probably familiar with "hardening off" plants in spring - slowly acclimating indoor-grown seedlings to harsher outdoor conditions over the course of a week or two. Do this in reverse with houseplants that have been outdoors all summer by exposing them to more and more shade. Otherwise, they may suffer setback when brought into the darker, drier indoor climate. Examine plants carefully for insect pests, too. This is a good time to repot using fresh potting soil.
6. Plant spring-flowering bulbs. Tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths are a must for spring gardens, but don't forget to plant some crocus, snowdrops, grape hyacinth, and other small, early bloomers right in the lawn. They'll be through blooming and the foliage will have died back before the first mowing. Plant some bulbs in containers - The Home Depot has a new selection of decorative pottery -- then place the pots in a sheltered but cool place, such as a storage building or unheated garage. In early spring bring the containers outdoors to grow and flower.
7. Prepare new garden beds. Instead of stripping the sod or waiting to till your new bed next spring, start now by laying down a thick layer of newspapers or corrugated cardboard over the lawn area you'll be transforming into a garden bed. Then cover with a layer of straw or mulch. This will smother the grass over the winter, making it easier to till in any remaining sod in spring, which also adds nutrients to the soil. Use landscape fabric and decorative mulch in place of the newspapers for new perennial gardens.
Great info here to pass along to everyone. It is very helpful. Thanks a bunch Marty!
[send green star]
October 11, 2007 1:50 PM
Composting leaves There's nothing better for the garden than compost. And there's no better ingredient than leaves. Leaves are a natural. They're plentiful and nutrient rich. The reason that leaves make such good compost is that they're made up of lots of complex chemicals that, once broken down, plants love.Leaves can be composted into rich humus for the garden. You can pack leaves in bins made of landscape timbers, but you can make compost with leaves in something as simple as a wire cage.
It doesn't matter what you make compost in, it's the ingredients and the process that make the difference.
The recipe is simple. It just takes organic matter like leaves. You can use grass clippings or even certain kitchen scraps (avoid grease or animal fat). And keep it moist, consistently moist, but not sopping wet. And you should turn your compost pile every couple of weeks. And of course, it takes time, generally about six months. But you can accelerate the process by adding a source of nitrogen, either in the form of a granular commercial fertilizer, or manure, or even green grass clippings. Click here for more composting information.
Are you willing to do a little work this fall to save time and effort in the garden next spring? Want to make your garden as comfortable as possible during its winter slumber and ensure that it will awaken next spring well rested and ready to grow?
Want to prevent your garden plot from becoming a winter haven for weeds, insect pests, their eggs, and the remnants of left over produce that could overrun your garden with unwanted volunteers next summer?
Will you be ready and able to plant at the slightest inkling of spring, or will you be forced to wait until after the garden can be tilled before setting out those early spring transplants?
Well here’s a checklist of simple gardening ideas that can be implemented this fall to clean up and help build a healthier vegetable garden that’s enriched and revitalized when spring arrives. You’ll be rewarded for your efforts with a more productive garden that offers fresh produce far earlier and with less effort.
mushroom soil, and leaves to the garden beds. Incorporating in the fall will give the soil amendments plenty of opportunity to decompose and mellow before it’s time to put those sensitive young seedlings in the ground.
Fall Tilling and Cultivation: If you till your garden during the fall, keep the cultivation shallow to avoid bringing weed seeds that were buried in the soil to the surface levels where they can germinate. I garden exclusively with raised beds which remain loose and ready to be planted with just a light once over with a garden fork or wheel hoe.
Plant Leafy Fall Greens: Now that the garden is vacant and inviting, why not plant a few fall veggies? Leafy greens such as lettuce, kale, collards, mustard, and spinach will grow right into the winter months and provide you with additional harvests from the fall garden. In many regions they will even survive the winter to produce early spring greens.
Don’t Forget the Garlic: In cold climate areas fall is the best time to plant gourmet garlic, shallots, and even some types of onions. My garlic seed was planted just last weekend. The goal is to allow the seed cloves to develop strong root systems during the fall that will support rapid above ground leaf growth at the first hint of spring.
Sow a Cover Crop: Not interested in fall vegetable production? Then plant a cover crop to protect and enrich your garden’s soil over the winter months, as well as crowd out weed growth. Annual ryegrass is my favorite choice for a fall cover crop. Other good choices include winter wheat, oats, rapeseed, barley, and peas.
Apply Winter Mulches: Too late for you to sow a cover crop? Well you can still cover your garden during fall and winter with a mulch of compost, mushroom soil, or a blanket of leaves. A three or four inch layer of shredded leaves in particular will restrict weed growth and encourage earthworm activity.
Gather Organic Materials: Leaves, straw, spent corn stalks; fall is a great time to locate supplies of these and other organic materials for use in the garden and in compost piles. Shredding will make the materials easier to handle and utilize. I use a leaf blower to shred every leaf that I get my hands on during autumn.
Follow these suggestions this fall and your garden plot will be protected from the elements and erosion, while friendly soil organisms and earthworms work year round to improve the texture and fertility of your soil. You’ll also control weed growth, harvest more fresh produce, and get your garden off to an earlier start next spring.
Thanks Marty for this very useful information.I mulch all my leaves.
[send green star]
September 07, 2007 10:49 AM
Burning fallen leaves used to be standard practice across North America, but most municipalities now ban or discourage the incendiary practice due to the air pollution it causes. The good news is that many towns and cities now offer curbside pickup of leaves and other yard waste, which they then turn into compost for park maintenance or for sale commercially. And there are other burn-free options as well.
Burning Leaves May Spark Health Problems Because of the moisture that is usually trapped within leaves, they tend to burn slowly and thus generate large amounts of airborne particulates—fine bits of dust, soot and other solid materials
According to Wisconsin’s Department of Natural Resources, these particulates can reach deep into lung tissue and cause coughing, wheezing, chest pain, shortness of breath and sometimes long-term respiratory problems.
Leaf smoke may also contain hazardous chemicals such as carbon monoxide, which can bind with hemoglobin in the bloodstream and reduce the amount of oxygen in the blood and lungs. Another noxious chemical commonly present in leaf smoke is benzo(a)pyrene, which has been shown to cause cancer in animals and is believed to be a major factor in lung cancer caused by cigarette smoke. And while breathing in leaf smoke can irritate the eyes, nose and throat of healthy adults, it can really wreak havoc on small children, the elderly and people with asthma or other lung or heart diseases.
Small Leaf Fires Can Cause Big Pollution Problems Sporadic individual leaf fires usually don’t cause any major pollution, but multiple fires in one geographic area can cause concentrations of air pollutants that exceed federal air quality standards. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), several leaf and yard waste fires burning simultaneously in a particular locale can cause air pollution rivaling that from factories, motor vehicles and lawn equipment.
Fallen Leaves Make Good Compost Purdue University consumer horticulture specialist Rosie Lerner says that composting leaves is the most eco-friendly alternative to burning. Dry leaves alone will take a long time to break down, she says, but mixing in green plant materials, such as grass trimmings, will speed up the process. Sources of nitrogen, such as livestock manure or commercial fertilizer, will also help.
“Mix the pile occasionally to keep a good supply of air in the compost,” she says, adding that a compost pile should be a minimum of three cubic feet and will generate soil conditioner within weeks or a few months, depending on conditions.
Mulch Leaves Instead of Burning Another option is to shred leaves for use as mulch for your lawn or to help protect garden and landscape plants. Lerner suggests adding no more than a two-to-three-inch layer of leaves around actively growing plants, chopping or shredding the leaves first so they don’t matt down and prevent air from reaching roots.
As to using leaves as mulch for your lawn, it is just a simple matter of mowing right over the leaves with the lawnmower and leaving them there. As with leaves used for garden mulch, this will provide many benefits, including weed suppression, moisture conservation and moderation of soil temperature.
Marty,never used a cold frame either.Thanks for these wonderful links.Will check them out.
[send green star]
September 03, 2007 7:24 PM
Eliz...have never used a cold frame...most of the late season crops always do ok around here...collards, turnip salad, etc....plus I always feel like I need a break...LOL
Here are some links to fall foilage...some have great pics!!!
Great info Marty! Thanks. Do you use a cold frame?
[send green star]
You are welcome Eliz!!! August 31, 2007 11:10 AM
The breezes taste Of apple peel. The air is full Of smells to feel- Ripe fruit, old footballs, Burning brush, New books, erasers, Chalk, and such. The bee, his hive, Well-honeyed hum, And Mother cuts Chrysanthemums. Like plates washed clean With suds, the days Are polished with A morning haze. - September, John Updike
Wow Marty, you were busy while I was away.Thanks for all this wonderful information and beautiful pictures!I especially love the autumn one with the different color trees.
Chelone (Turtlehead) Nick-named for their blossoms shaped like turtles heads, Chelone is a carefree fall blooming perennial whose only real dislike is excessive dry heat. Chelone behaves itself, growing in a dense clump with attractive foliage and red, pink or white blooms. Zones 2 - 9
Chrysanthemum There are many varieties of mums, not all particularly hardy. The plants sold in the fall as 'Hardy Mums' should have been sold to us in the spring, to be reliably hardy in the north. However we wouldn't have had the patience to plant them and wait. Mums and pumpkins are the flag bearers of fall. Try and get your potted mums in the ground ASAP. Keep them well watered and mulch once the ground freezes and you'll stand your best chance of having truly hardy mums. Zones 3 - 9
Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed) Joe Pye is one of those natives we take for granted because we see it by the side of the road, but it makes a wonderful backdrop to a garden border. The newer Eupatoriums have been bred shorter and less weedy but the dense mop heads of mauve flowers still blend in beautifully in the fall garden. Zones 2 - 9
Helenium (Sneezeweed) Helenium is making a resurgence in gardens. They look like small russet-toned coneflowers, in reds, yellows and oranges. Many helenium can grow quite tall and will need to be staked or pinched. Like clematis, they like cool feet and hot heads. helenium is also a good choice for poorly drained areas. Zones 3 - 9
Helianthus (Perennial Sunflower) Helianthus is a good natured, jolly plant, branching and flopping on its neighbors. The brilliant gold fluffy daisy-like flowers make an instant focal point and attract butterflies and birds. Helianthus tend to be sterile and can be reproduced by division. Zones 3 - 9
Heliopsis (False Sunflower) Heliopsis is very similar to Helianthus. Heliopsis tends to begin blooming earlier in the season and stays on for 8 or more weeks. Newer varieties have been bred smaller and sturdier, for less flopping. Zones 3 - 9
Sedum (Stonecrop) Sedum 'Autumn Joy' comes as close to perfection as any plant can. It looks good all year, requires minimal attention and attracts few problems. It's only drawback is that it is not deer resistant. 'Autumn Joy' has been joined in the garden by a growing number of fall wonders like: 'Bertram Anderson, 'Brilliant' and 'Matrona'. No fall garden is complete without sedum. Zones 3 - 9
Solidago (Goldenrod) Goldenrod is finally getting the respect it deserves, especially with introductions like 'Fireworks' and 'Golden Fleece'. Unlike the native solidagos that spread everywhere and never stood up on their own, these newer varieties are sturdy and cock full of fall blooms. Zones 3 - 9
Harvesting Seeds From Your Garden By Mary Emma AllenSome of the seeds in your garden are edible, others used for next spring's planting. In days ago, when the pioneers gathered the last vegetables, they were concerned about harvesting seeds to use the following season.
Nowadays, the majority of gardeners simply purchase their seeds. However, some may want to save seeds and experience gardening the way of their ancestors.
Among those that are easy to save for next year's planting are radish, mustard, spinach, lettuce, endive, Chinese cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkin, peas, beans, peppers, French marigolds, and many herbs.
Harvesting StepsWhen harvesting seeds, your aim is to get the best ones possible. So you should save the seeds from the best plant, not necessarily from the best fruit. It's said that with leafy plants, such as lettuce, you should collect the seeds from the plants that take the longest to go to seed. With root plants, choose those which bolt first (flower or produce seeds prematurely).
With radishes and leafy plants, let the seed stalk form. Then cut the entire stalk when it and the seed pods are brown and dry. Place the stalks in a plastic or large paper bag and beat them lightly with a stick to break the pods. Pour the seeds from the bag and pick out any remaining chaff.
Some Left on the VineVegetables such as cucumbers, melons, squash, and tomatoes should be left on the vine until they are overripe, for best results. Then separate the seeds from the pulp; wash them thoroughly until clean. Dry in the sun.
Some gardeners consider best results with Italian tomatoes come from placing the overripe tomatoes under hay mulch in the spots in your garden where you want them to grow the following year. Then when spring arrives, protect the seedlings until the danger of the last frost has passed.
Let seed peppers ripen thoroughly before being picked. Sweet and hot peppers will cross, so these plants should be separated by at least 1/2 feet if you're growing them from seed.
Seeds from HerbsMany herbs seed readily. It generally saves you money if you grow your own, for herb seeds are fairly expensive for the few you need to grow a small number of plants. With dill, fennel, parsley, chives, and those with noticeably large seed heads, you keep checking the heads and cut them just as the seeds are getting ready to scatter.
Then place them in paper bags and let them dry thoroughly before you store them.
Flower Seeds French marigolds have seeds that are easy to harvest. Pick the flower heads when they are beginning to fade. Then dry the flowers and pull them apart when completely dried. One flower should produce enough seeds for your whole bed of marigolds.
Others with individual flowers, like nasturtiums, should be harvested when the flowers fade and seeds form. Dry them a few days before storing.
Packaging & StoringMake sure you label all the seeds you harvest so you know what you have come planting time. Store them in sealed cans or jars or sealed packets when thoroughly dried.
Keep them in a dry, cool place. Check seeds such as pumpkin, melon, and squash to make sure they aren't being mildewed.
Harvest your seeds and enjoy next spring's planting.
Fall vegetables don’t require any special care; in fact you’ll spend less time caring for your fall crops because of the favorable autumn growing conditions. The plants will grow rapidly at first and gradually slow as the days become shorter and colder.
You’ll be happy to discover that destructive insects won’t be as numerous, nor create as much of a problem as they can during the summer. The most common fall insect pest visiting the garden may be aphids, which fortunately won’t cause much of a problem to the growth or production of healthy plants.
The fall gardener will struggle less with weed control because the weeds will germinate less frequently and grow slower than they do during the warmer growing seasons. Compared to the hot and dry summers, fall usually brings an increase in the amount of precipitation, eliminating another time consuming garden chore of irrigating the garden.
With just a little attention and effort you may be surprised to find that growing fall vegetables in the backyard garden is even more enjoyable than planting a vegetable garden during the spring and summer seasons. Following is a list of fast growing, cold hardy crops that are ideal for fall vegetable gardening.
Best Vegetables for Fall Growing:
Kale - Nutritious leafy greens on productive plants that over-winter easily even in cold climates.
Collards - Another leafy green similar to kale but with larger, stronger flavored leaves.
Lettuce - Plant varieties bred especially for growing during the fall season or in cold frames.
Spinach - Not as easy to grow as kale and collards, these leafy greens will also over-winter.
Turnips - Here’s a quick maturing root crop that’s productive and easy to grow.
Rutabagas - Larger and sweeter than turnips, plant earlier in the summer for fall harvests.
Broccoli - Popular, productive and much easier to grow than cauliflower.
Cauliflower - Finicky grower, planting must be timed well in order to develop large heads.
Mustard - Spicy hot leaves, this is a very fast growing vegetable.
Mache - Very cold hardy, mild greens can be grown right into the winter months.
Cabbage - Grow from transplants (like broccoli and cauliflower) or start seeds indoors under lights.
Oriental Vegetables - Wide range of unusual varieties are available for fall production.
Escarole - A bitter leafy green vegetable that can be cooked or used raw as a salad green.
Endive - Similar to escarole with attractive frilly leaves.
Brussels sprouts - Start seed in early summer or purchase transplants.
Arugula - Fast growing leafy greens for salads or gourmet recipes.
Leeks - One of the hardiest plants in the garden, leeks can even withstand winter
Summer is ending, the days are growing shorter, and temperatures are dropping, but there’s still a little time left for the home gardener to begin Planting a Fall Vegetable Garden.
Just think about it; no bugs, no weeds, no watering, no sweat… fall is the perfect season for planting delicious home-grown vegetables.
Planting Cold Hardy Vegetable Crops
The key is to plant veggies that will grow quickly and are tolerant of colder weather conditions and shorter day lengths. Your best opportunity for success at this point will come from growing frost hardy leafy greens like kale, collards, mustard, spinach, and even lettuce. Visit the following link to read about a few popular winter vegetables if you’re interested in ideas on which crops will grow well during autumn.
You may be able to find transplants for fall cole crops like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts for sale at your local greenhouse or garden center. Most of my fall vegetables were started indoors six weeks ago and transplanted into the garden last week. I also direct seeded turnips and rutabagas into the raised beds around the beginning of August.
Raised beds help to make the transition from summer growing into planting a fall garden smoother and quicker. The beds stay loose year round so there’s no need to get out the tiller or perform deep cultivation in between crops. Just remove any weeds, garden litter, or remains of the summer’s harvest.
Use a garden fork to break up the soil’s crust and to further loosen the top couple inches of the raised beds that will be planted with your fall vegetables. This summer I also incorporated a three-inch layer of mushroom compost into the raised beds before sowing and transplanting the fall crops.
Fall vegetable plants and leafy greens are more tolerant of this source of fresh nitrogen and won’t suffer with the problems that would be created for other vegetables like overly lush growth in tomato plants. The raised beds enriched with the mushroom soil will fertilize the fall vegetables, mellow over the winter and be conditioned for planting in early spring.
Timing the Fall Gardening Schedule
Many people assume that cold temperatures are the biggest deterrent to growing fall vegetables, but if fact the reduced amount of sunlight and shorter day lengths are a much greater handicap for producing vegetables into the fall and winter months.
The challenge for the fall garden grower is to time the plantings so that the vegetables grow rapidly during the ideal conditions of early autumn and are ready to harvest before the bitter cold arrives as winter takes hold of the garden.
It may require a little trial and error and judgment on your part to determine the best time to plant a fall garden in your specific growing region, but it’s better to plant too early than to get your crops in the ground too late. Record the dates that you planted, note the results as the fall crops mature, and adjust the timing in future seasons if necessary.
Making Plans for a Fall Vegetable Garden
For a general planting schedule or timetable, determine the first average fall frost date for your region and work backwards to determine the appropriate time to plant those winter vegetables. But keep in mind that the fall crops will grow and mature slower under the lower light conditions of autumn than they would if planted in the spring or summer.
If a particular crop requires eight weeks to mature, planting eight weeks before the average fall frost date in the case of frost hardy vegetables will give the crops plenty of time to mature since the plants will continue growing through the first frosts. Remember that it’s better to plant early and give the fall vegetable crops more time to mature than not enough.
Hardy Asters are easy to grow late summer and fall daisylike fluffy flowers in purple, blue, pink, red and white that stand up to early frost. Theyare a sure bet if you want reliable color in late summer and fall. The Hardy Asters have a slow growth rate and prefer full sun and well-drained soil. They will grow in height 2 to 4 feet. Hardy Asters look great in the garden and in containers. Also there are dwarf cultivars that make good edging plants. They also make good cut flowers.