Thirsty Turks sip 60 million liters of raki each year, mostly with meals.

Raki (rah-KUH) is clear brandy made from grapes and raisins, flavored with pungent anise. Most is quite potent (80- to 90-proof/40% to 45% alcohol) and thus diluted with water and sipped. It's similar to Greek ouzo and French pastis.

When mixed with ice and/or water for drinking, it turns milky white. Because of its color and hefty alcoholic punch, Turks call it lion's milk (aslan sütü.

If you like licorice and anise, you may like raki. If you don't, for sure you won't.

Until recently, raki was made only by Tekel, the Turkish government tobacco and spirits monopoly which produces the Yeni Raki, Tekirdag and Altindag brands.

In 2004 the commercial Elda company distillery producing the premium Efe Raki brand opened, starting the trend to more brands. Both raki factories are located near Izmir to take advantage of its abundant, high-quality grapes, raisins and anise.

Elda has now elaborated its raki products into several brands, including Sari Zeybek, a premium "yellow" raki made with choice Tefenni anise and aged for six months in oak barrels to give it a smooth taste and pale yellow color. It's pretty expensive at YTL35 for a 70 cl bottle.

It must also be mentioned that several people died and others were sickened in 2005 from drinking sahte raki (fake, or bootleg, raki) made by parties unknown of substances mysterious. It's a good idea to stick to the major brands such as Tekel and Efe, and confirm that the seals on the bottles are intact. (There should be no problems in legitimate restaurants.)

HOW TO DRINK RAKI
Here's how you drink it: a clear, straight, narrow glass is filled 1/3 or 1/2 with raki, then diluted with water and/or ice to suit the drinker's taste. (Say Tamam!, tah-MAHM, "okay," when the waiter has poured enough water and/or ice.)

A traditional raki sofrasi ("raki table") bears dozens of meze (MEH-zeh, Turkish hot and cold hors d'oeuvres, salads, cheeses, etc.) but the two essentials are salty white sheeps'-milk cheese (beyaz peynir) and sweet yellow melon (kavun).

While sipping raki and nibbling meze, there's good conversation, much humor, and many toasts to your companions' health and prosperity. After you've eaten far too much, the main course of kebap or fish arrives, to be followed by a dessert/sweet, fruit and Turkish coffee.

Raki is sold by the drink (kadeh), in small 17-cl glass pitchers, in half-bottles (35 cl) and full bottles (70 cl).

If you want just one drink, ask for bir kadeh raki (BEER kah-DEH rah-KUH).

If you're drinking lightly with one or two friends, ask for bir otuzbeslik raki (BEER OH-tooz-BESH-leek, a 35 cl half-bottle).

If you really want to "milk the lion" or you're with lots of friends, order bir sise raki (BEER SHEE-sheh rah-KUH, a full bottle, sometimes called a yetmislik, yeht-MEESH-leek, a 70 cl bottle).

Serefinize! (sheh-REHF-ee-nee-ZEH, "In your honor!") is the proper toast.