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Loading...Are “Foodies” the True Evil Elite?
- Eric Steinman
- February 21, 2011
- 1:15 pm
- 56 comments
I am a food writer, which makes me a “foodie” by association (as much as I reject the terminology). My job, and much of my life, is occupied by considering, writing, and yes, sometimes eating food – a job that elicits as much envy as it does utter disdain. As an example, I was asked to judge an oyster competition a few years back, which, to my mind, sounded fun. Little did I know that my newfound responsibilities for the evening would require me to sit bolted to a white tablecloth, where I would have to rate each oyster along 30 to 40 different criteria. In addition, I was politely forced to eat upwards of 38 raw oysters (I lost count after about 34) and still maintain sanity and general civility. That night, when I retired to my hotel room to contemplate the general absurdity of my chosen profession along with the 40 odd oysters piling up in my GI tract, I had a thought or two about gluttony. Gluttony not in the sense of one of the deadly sins, but more in regards to indulging a preoccupation with food to the extent that it is not only decadent, but utterly pointless. Thomas Aquinas was quoted in saying that gluttony leads to “loutishness, uncleanness, talkativeness, and an uncomprehending dullness of mind.” Well that night I had two out of four, but none of these were generally my problem. My problem, if there was one, was the thought that dedicating one’s life to being a “foodie” might just be a graceless and profligate style of living.
After sleeping on it and chasing my oyster catch with a more modest breakfast the next morning, I quickly forgot about my dark night of the soul, but was rudely reminded of such doubts recently by B.R. Myers “moral crusade” against “foodies” that ran in The Atlantic. Mr. Myers, not one for mincing words, has long been a critic of many things (meat eating, animal cruelty, Jonathan Franzen, etc) and recently made his opinion known on “foodies” and the culture the espouse, with his article, “The Moral Crusade Against Foodies.” The 3000+ words of rabid condemnation Mr. Myers lays down is probably one of the more hateful pieces of vitriol aimed at a perceived elite on this side of the Tea Party dividing line. Myers portrays “foodies,” food lovers, and food writers as motivated by their traditional elitism and gaining great pleasure in, not only food, but the fact that the majority of people cannot afford the rarified experiences bestowed on people like me. I honestly don’t take offense to anything Myers spits out, and while I don’t agree with the majority of his invectives, I do agree that there is something sadistic and off with the kind of people who derive perverse pleasure from eating things like goat testicles in rice wine.
That said, this “moral crusade” feels more curmudgeonly than purposeful. Sure for every democratic culinary pleasure (wood-fired pizza, craft brew, and a finely made cookie) there are any number of embarrassing indulgences that seduce people into the belief that coffee beans pooped out of the intestine of an Asian Palm Civit is worth going into debt for. But we are talking extremes here, and the fact is that food has become a very political subject, tapping into class, culture, and access. But beyond polemics, being a “foodie” is not necessarily an elite state of being. I have seen individuals derive as much enthusiasm for a jar of their favorite peanut butter as they do for a morel found among the detritus of the forest floor. The fact is people write about food, cultivate food, and, more importantly, eat good food because it is nourishing, compelling, and often a very simple visceral pleasure in a world with few uncomplicated pleasures left. If someone wants to call this elite, they are likely missing the boat, and a great bowl of Vietnamese pho.
Read more: Eating for Health, Following Food, Food, Vegan, Atlantic, BR Myers, Crusade, elite, food snob, Foodie, gluttony, gourmet
Eric Steinman
Eric Steinman is a freelance writer based in Rhinebeck, NY. He regularly writes about food, music, art, architecture, and culture and is a regular contributor to Bon Appétit among other publications.
Disclaimer: The views expressed above are solely those of the author and may
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good to know
Going out in the garden and eat dirt!
thnx for this
YUM; I shared this one
Thank you for tips. I have tried the smiling tactic...but it is an odd feeling to smile when you at…
56 comments
+ add your ownSo many definitions out there on what a foodie is but I simply appreciate and love food, so just call my self a lover of tasty foods, especially from organic and non GMO sources, free range, non-factory farm sources.
Love to prepare food from scratch and grow organic veggies and herbs on the balcony. One can eat wisely and enjoy foods without being snobbish. Am not sure if one would label me a foodie as I certainly don't fit into the elite, am somewhat of a rebel and love food that tastes good. Don't eat white refined bread for instance but just because it doesn't taste all that good and has the nutrients long ago taken out of it. Toss a few herbs on popcorn popped at home and love dark chocolate, make tea from herbs.
One commented that oysters make her stomach shudder. Am an omnivore but allergic to shellfish but can eat shrimp. Everyone has their favourite foods, just like to dip into a variety of flavours to savour!
Food is something to look forward to but it is sad if one is on a low income and often some must struggle to find nutritious foods to eat.
I am a foodie too, but a veg foodie. The mere thought of you consuming all those oysters made my stomach do backflips and shudder.
This is why it is hard for me to lose weight. I love food. I LOVE CHOCOLATE! I love taste testing new foods, like the time we went out to a French Cafe in Cleveland and I ordered the Escargo. otherwise known as snails.
Some foodies are evil elite because they walk around ith their noses in theair and act so holier than thou and oh so la-dee-da but not all of them are. It just depends on their personalities and attitudes and how they go about doing their jobs.
Don't be ridiculous!
Interesting...
I consider myself I guess a quasi-foodie. I am a chef, I love food, I love eating, but moderation must always win. While I may cater for glam events, I am not a proponent of gourmet.
I don't demand that those I teach be forced to make croissants from scratch and tell them if they haven't had them straight out the oven they haven't lived.
I know that food is great, healing and one of the balms of life. But there are other things worth enjoying, like company or nature.
And I will always draw the line at where this enjoyment comes from. Our enjoyment of food should never destroy the happiness of others. How can you derive enjoyment from something is created from pure suffering and torture (i.e. all animal products).
And in this I find main-stream foodies and locavores horribly gluttonous and obnoxious-- their lack of moral consideration for the rest of the planet and hedonistic views towards other life forms is inexcusable.
Excellent article. I love food...all food. cheap food, expensive food, exotic food, plain food....THAT is what makes a foodie. Its the experience, the culture, the travel, the ingredients, the history of the meal or dish that is so fascinating to me...and well, taste is important too! I blog about it on FB as Foodiegirl. Obviously Mr Myers hasn't a clue. Thank you for an amusing and insightful piece!
Thanks, interesting article.
I love food!
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