Ball Gowns: Designing & Sewing Your Own

Variety is certainly not the word I’d use to describe ball gown and prom dress selections. “Would you like a strapless A-line in pink with a sash or a strapless A-line in blue? It comes with a sash.” Other than color and maybe some cheap rhinestones or sequins, formal wear rarely strays from the traditional and can be as predictable as Katherine Heigl’s latest rom-com. Yet the allure of the ball gown strikes something elemental in women: beauty and celebrating feminine curves.

Choosing a Style

Whether buying a pattern or designing the dress yourself, choose a style that suits your body. To determine which style is best, go play Cinderella for an afternoon and try on several gowns at a store. The more expensive the better, and not because expensive stores always have pretty things, but because higher prices (generally) mean better fits and higher-quality fabrics. The three most common styles you will see for evening wear include the ball gown, the sheath, and the A-line dress. Determine which one celebrates your body best and then design or choose a pattern accordingly.

Choosing Fabric

For thrifty spenders, paying for fabric may be the most painful part of sewing your gown. Evening wear calls for luxury, and luxury demands moolah. Patterns offer suggestions for which fabric to use: listen to those suggestions. If designing your own gown, satins and taffetas ($10-$20 a yard at JoAnn Fabrics) work best for structured dresses like ball gowns and A-lines. Chiffon, silk, or georgette ($10-$15 a yard) are better for sheaths. Using polyester blends lower cost. Half-off coupons to chain craft stores could also make fabric purchases less painful. A test garment made of muslin ($3-5 a yard) or some other inexpensive fabric is useful for avoiding mistakes on costly silks and satins — money better spent on the perfect pair of heels or an awesome clutch. You could also consider using fabric from a hand-me-down dress.

Depending on where one shops, a factory-made evening gown costs between $100 (likely made with polyester) to $500; a custom-made evening gown starts at $300, depending on the material and detailing used. Assuming one uses about 5 yards of fabric, throwing in some yardage for a mess-up or two, the cost is comparable to the cheapest, simplest gowns. Ultimately, you have to decide if the time spent sewing (for simpler dresses, about 20 hours) is also worth it.

A Special Note to Beginners

For beginner sewers, have a couple of sewing victories to your name before taking on this challenge: maybe a tote bag or skirt. These projects will tip you off to how skilled you are with a sewing machine and what is still a struggle. A mentor or classes at a craft store can help bridge the gap. Do not be dismayed: with minor experience, the new crafter can make a simple ball gown. Start with a pattern and consider going after the stiffer fabrics like satin or a polyester blend, which are easier to work with. The sewing machine can grip these fabrics more easily than chiffon and silk. For the newbies, consider a mock-up. Cutting twice and measuring once is not a good philosophy with dupioni silk at $30 a yard. Additionally, give yourself the greatest asset in sewing: time, at least a month or two. This frees first timers from the pressure of a deadline, allowing you to enjoy the magic of this craft rather than the mistakes.

Getting Started

Whether you’re prepping for prom, creating a unique bridesmaid dress or simply wanting a fresh look for your nights out on the town, making your own dress can be a fun and rewarding process. One major upside? You’re not likely to run into anyone with a similar look! Made with unique fabrics, innovative techniques, or echoing long-gone eras, a collection of beyond-the-ordinary ball gowns awaits… Think Molly Ringwald’s character in Pretty in Pink, think classy and creative, think… outside the box. To finish your look, consider upcycling an old pair of shoes.

Want inspiration for getting started? Check out Bethany Marcello’s round-up of handmade gowns at CraftFoxes.

Disclaimer: The views expressed above are solely those of the author and may not reflect those of
Care2, Inc., its employees or advertisers.

Katja S.

1:06PM PDT on Jun 3, 2012

@ Magdalen
Where do you live? My suggestion is to start ballroom dancing, and there will also be opportunities for formal balls. I currently live in D.C., and there are lots of events. Not quite as many as in Vienna, Austria, of course, but enough to enjoy and to warrant an extensive wardrobe.

June 3
send a green star

1:01PM PDT on Jun 3, 2012

To the author of the article:
I think it's great that you encourage people to sew, and I am very much in favour of making things myself. I am an avid seamstress, and made several ball gowns from scratch.
However, the one thing that really troubles me is that, like many, you confuse fibre and fabric! Silk is a fibre, which can be woven into virtually any type of fabric! Chiffon, organza, satin, taffeta, etc. can all consist of silk. Stating that chiffon, silk and georgette are less suitable for ball gowns is misleading and simply untrue. There is really no such thing as a generic "silk." It's the weave that determines the name of the fabric, while the fibre is indicative of the quality. Silk chiffon is a wonderful material for a light summer ball gown, and I have a stunning number in off-white with orange and green flowers and a green silk taffeta sash. It looks like something Grace Kelly would have worn, and I get tons of compliments when I wear it.

Magdalen B.

12:57PM PDT on Jun 3, 2012

Katja, I'm so envious! (Sigh! Pause to play "Memories")Enjoy the chance to dress up and "Gather ye rosebud while ye may"!

12:46PM PDT on Jun 3, 2012

@Lydia P.
I wear ball gowns multiple times per year, and most of my friends also wear ball gowns. I have a special closet that contains evening and ball gowns; yes, I diferentiate, because a ball gown is full-skirted and perfect for dancing. Perhaps you don't attend balls, but what do you expect people who do to wear? A bin liner? LOL!

Judy A.

9:55AM PDT on Apr 11, 2012

You could be so creative and get completely what you would like.