In years past, when author Bill Eichner, M.D.’s girls were
small, he wanted big pumpkins for carving. Known as cow pumpkins,
they have names like Big Moon and Dill’s Atlantic Giant.

Once his family outgrew jack-o’lanterns (well, almost) he started
selecting his pumpkin varieties for flavor rather than size.
The best pie varieties are only 8 inches in diameter, with
coy names like Small Sugar, or elegant names that sound
aristocratic, like the French heirloom rouge Vif d’Etampes.
Their sweet flavor is also great for soup and cake.

This recipe is from his Grandmother.

1 10-inch pie shell, unbaked
1 tablespoon butter, melted
2 plus cups pumpkin, cooked
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 to 2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 to 2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cloves (optional)
1/4 teaspoon allspice (optional)
2 ounces dark molasses (optional)
1 cup milk, scalded
1 small can (5 ounces) evaporated milk
3 eggs, beaten

Brush the pie shell with melted butter then refrigerate.

Cook the pumpkin, brown sugar, salt, spices, and molasses in a saucepan over moderate heat until thick, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the two kinds of milk and the eggs, and cook over low heat for another 5 minutes. Pour into a pie shell, and bake for 15 minutes at 425 degrees F, and then at 350 degrees F for 45 minutes.