I think Pounce treats are great, they have one for bad breath, etc. My cats have never puked from pounce.
I forgot to tell you that I read some hint about using a detangling pump spray, and I had it here so I tried it, and it did seem to help a little, but nothing to write home about after the knots and matts got so bad. It happened to her twice this year.
Some cats have long fur, and no problems with it, and others have that other stuff.
Thank you for the sympathy and the advice! I will ask them in the morning if they can sedate her a bit, to take some of her fear away. That's a great idea. And I'll let you know what they say about preventing this in the first place.
I sure do sympathize with you. I am wondering why the groomer can't give her a sedative first. I started asking for them when I take my cats in to be euthanized, and they are very much relaxed after around 15 minutes.
It took me one month to untangle one of my cats that had hair matts and knots really bad. Underneath is tender. I used my flea comb and cuticle scissors, and had her on my lap. When she started falling asleep from me petting her, I then started cutting the knots and matts lengthwise, and I would then pet her, and stop when she acted annoyed, and start again with my fingers trying to pull the matts apart.
When she got mad, I would stop, and start again later on when she calmed down.
I think with the long hairs, the slicker brush works well. She might be especially sensitive about the belly because of her matts, but the belly is a tender area anyway. Mine had them in her groin area too, and you know they really pulled there too.
I think the knots are at their worst when they over groom or it is summer and the fur gets wet. it tangles too. Getting a new fur cut just might be the answer to the heart breaking knots.
I really think it would be better for them to sedate her enough to relax her, rather than to leave her there to get use to the place. I think that would be VERY stressful, especially if you leave her there.
Let us know how it goes, and also if they have any tips for the rest of us to do regarding these knots.
My cat's getting older and not grooming herself as well anymore. And she will barely let me brush her a little bit. She's got long hair. Consequently, she has developed a bunch of mats in her fur. I began cutting them out, but I accidentally nicked her with the scissors, and now she's wary of that, too. I don't blame her, I felt just terrible about it.
I'm bringing her to the vet tomorrow for some help, they may have to shave her - they're going to do it in a very gentle way, though. She goes first thing in the morning, and they let her get used to being there. Then they do a little at a time, if they feel it's necessary to get rid of the mats. So she won't be as traumatized as if they just held her down and did it all at once. She's going to hate it anyway, and will be plenty angry with me. They assure me they're not actually going to shave all her fur off - just make it shorter. Sigh - I hate knowing that she's going to be plenty upset about this, and I'm worried about how traumatic it's going to be. But I can't let her just continue with these mats in her fur - it must feel awful to have those things pulling at her skin!
Some sympathy or suggestions for preventing this in the future, please? She recently has been letting me brush her with this ionic brush I got from Sharper Image (for myself!) some years ago - she won't let me brush the mats, which I understand, but maybe since she doesn't seem to mind this as much, she'll continue to let me brush her after she gets her hair cut and she won't develop mats in the first place!
She really hates for me to try to brush her tummy, which is where most of the mats develop. She's ok with brushing her back and sides, but not underneath. Do you think if I persist trying to brush her all over that she'll eventually just allow me to brush her everywhere?
Thank you Erica,
I use a slicker brush, and they are great for removing loose fur.
The thin skin underneath the fur of most cats is quite susceptible to tearing, being scratched and getting infected especially when one grooms their long or short haired felines with a metal tipped brush.
This is an absolute NO-NO ! and of course your cat will let you know if he or she has claws, so I am recommending one of the products my family uses and many others also do to, here in a review from Epinions. Thanks for reading and Enjoy !
Thanks for your tip, Lisa. That sounds, to me, like a logical way to use the Dawn. I don't like soaking a cat anyway. I used corn starch as a healthier substitute on my daughter when she was a baby...I wonder if corn starch could replace the baby powder in your tip
Using Dawn on the kittens does work. But please dont get your kittens completely soaked - this leads to chilling which can weaken and kill a tiny kitten. Dip a flea comb in a weak solution of Dawn and water on a flea comb and comb thru the fur. Have a cup of water with dawn in it nearby to rinse the dead fleas and flea dirt out of the comb. Also, I found out that baby powder causes the hard shell on the flea to dry out and split open, causing them to die. Work the powder in thoroughly. Take care not to let them breathe it in. Put on your fingers first, then massage in. The kittens actually enjoy it. Comb and powder at least 2x a day until you dont see fleas or flea dirt on the comb anymore. Check kittens at every feeding for fleas, if you rub around the kittens nose, ears and eyes, the fleas move around. Fleas like to live on kittens faces. When the kittens are 12 weeks old you can use top spot. I halve the dosage. Do not use the cheaper, off brands of top spot treatments. The last time I tried to save money, my adult cats gagged and foamed at the mouth for several hours after treatment. Scary!
I give my cats the treats they sell at Tader Joe's. I also occasionally give them raw chicken liver, which they love. I have heard that raw chicken necks are good (especially for teeth) but I haven't seen any at the grocery store so I haven't tried them.
Hi all! I'm the lady with the cat with the urinary stones if you recall that. Peanut's fine now! Thanks for all assistance. Fine tips on this thread. Thanks for that too.
Just posted an article in News Network called Feline Financial Assistance. Someone may have posted in this group already so please excuse if duplicate! Anyway, you can go to fveap.org for more details.
Also, and this is a treasure worth marking for everyone in the cat world, in my opinion, and it's Care2's Lisa H.'s blog entitled: Need Help Paying Vet Bills?". It is just FULL of links to organizations that will help pet owners in financial need to take care of their beloved pets. Check it out! Copy it. Save it. It may come in handy for someone you know one day.
This post was modified from its original form on 20 Feb, 9:00
I never used to give my babies treats but a friend of mine gave me a gift over a year ago it was yummies tartar control. Now that they know about them, they look for them so i now buy Friskies crunchy tartar control treats by Purina.
I don't know if they are really good for them but at least it is good for their teeth.
This post was modified from its original form on 03 Jan, 0:38
Nice tip Donna! I will do that.
My favorite tip is when you want any cat to come to you for any reason, never chase it because they run all the more.
I coax by playing, sweet talk , or giving food sounds like shaking the yummy bag.
Which tip Sugar, the one with the cans in a bucket? I was just looking and I saw that I was talking about the knot cutting.
I am already putting the cans in a bucket of hot water with the lid on it to warm them slighty. I usually try to empty the water and heat the water up again. The cats in the house don't want to wait for the second heating though.
Donna you have your kitties trained! Mine won't give me time to do anything like that. I have tried since you shared that tip last winter. I might try again, just go into the bathroom and hide while it is warming up....
We taught our two cats not to scratch the furniture by providing scratching posts in several locations including a floor to ceiling tree house in the living room which turns out to be a great place to watch them play.
Each time they scratch on a scratching post they get a treat. It has been years since one of them exercised claws on the furniture. They both 'scratch for treats' several times a day and if one of their people isn't in the room we hear them scratching at their approved places even without a reward. Our furniture is free of cat scratches and our kitties have very sharp claws. You should see them scale our eight foot wooden fence!
They are indoor/outdoor and have cat doors so they can go in and out as they please. I wouldn't want them to be trapped in the house if something happened and they needed to escape. Now if I could just train the male not to try to sleep on my head at night. He is eighteen pounds of long lean Burmese mix and a real bed hog. When he stretches out on my lap on the recliner he reaches from my belt to my toes. That's a big cat.
Our little eight pound Russian Blue finds some innoxious corner of the bed and doesn't bother anyone. They are both rescued kitties and have fallen into the lap of luxury.
Hi. When our two cats, Bubble and Squeak, became seniors, they didn't groom themselves as much. They also didn't like being combed as much as when they were younger.
Each evening, we would hold them on our laps and pet and massage them, checking for little nubby tangles. When they were relaxed and purring, my husband or I would very gently work our fingers into any new tangles and gradually "unwork" them. (In severe cases, which were rare, we would have to carefully cut out tight tangles while one of us held the cat firmly.) 'Hope this helps some. **E
I think you would do better starting a new topic. You might want to title it " Long haired kitty- matting problem"
Using Reiki for the Family Pet
Animals, like people, benefit from Reiki. Whether you have cats, dogs, birds, fish, ferrets, horses, or other larger animals, you can use Reiki to help your pets. Any animal that receives regular grooming from a human is probably receptive to being touched for Reiki. If you want to give Reiki to an animal who is not usually touched, such as fish or wild animals, use techniques where you give Reiki from afar, such as beaming and distant Reiki. Knowing when and where to go for Reiki Reiki works well with animals for the same reasons it works well on children and people of all ages. Have you ever noticed that when you pet an animal, he rolls over to receive more or looks at you with lovey-dovey eyes or sighs? Animals respond to your loving touch and intention. Reiki is another way to help your animals feel better. You can give Reiki to animals in the following situations: When they are ill: Reiki helps the healing process and works with any type of medical intervention. When they are young or old: You can use Reiki on an animal of any age or situation. When they have been through a trauma: Animals can use loving energy after they've experienced any type of abuse, loss, or move, or if they seem to exhibit depression or other behavioral disorder. Even if you don't know what the problem is, you can use Reiki to help. Finding the right pet practitioner If your pet can travel, you can take him to a Reiki clinic. You may find that a pet trainer, pet groomer, or breeder also offers Reiki services. Here are some suggestions for finding a Reiki practitioner for your animal friend: Any Reiki practitioner can give Reiki to your pet, although some practitioners specialize in giving Reiki to animals. Animal lovers who work as animal handlers or in veterinarian's offices are taking Reiki training so they can use Reiki in their work. Some Reiki practitioners specialize in treating animals or even a particular type of animal. In some cities, you may find Reiki clinics for pets! Obviously, you need to have an animal who can travel and behave among other animals. You can learn Reiki yourself so you can help your animals. Listening to animals Animals differ in their responsiveness to Reiki depending on their illness, personality, and how well they know you. Here's how you can read an animal to determine how to administer Reiki: An animal may screech, fly, growl, hiss, or run away as a way of telling you it doesn't want to be touched. In that case, you can use distant Reiki or beaming techniques. An animal may let you perform hands-on Reiki but then shift positions or look at you funny. Move your hands a few inches above the body and continue Reiki, if you feel that it's still needed. An animal may tell you it wants Reiki by coming near you when you are giving Reiki to yourself or someone else. If you're lucky, an animal will move itself so you can give Reiki exactly where it's needed. Using different techniques If you feel comfortable or get an intuitive message to get closer to an animal, you can then try performing Reiki with your hands hovering above the pet. You can eventually move into an actual hands-on session. Adapt the techniques used for humans to animals. Because animals can't give their express permission for you to perform Reiki, make sure you approach any animal in a slow and respectful manner when starting to give Reiki. Doing so gives the animal the opportunity to understand what you are doing and lets the animal make his feelings known. You may want to start by beaming Reiki to the animal from across the room or sending distant Reiki. These techniques may be sufficient for treating an animal. Intention is the single most important factor in the success of a Reiki treatment. Intend or pray for the highest level of healing for the animal and that you be a pure channel of Reiki energy. Healing is not from you, but through you. Be clear about your role as a Reiki healer and why you are treating the animal. Here are the general techniques to use on animals: Distant Reiki: This type of Reiki can be performed from anywhere, so you don't need to be near the animal to do this. You can use this technique to treat any trauma an animal might have suffered in the past or to help the animal with any event in the future. Beaming Reiki from across the room: When you are with the animal, start with beaming to connect with the animal from a safe distance. You and Rover then get a chance to connect with each other before moving closer. Reiki with hands hovering over the body: Some pets tolerate this type of Reiki for a longer period of time than hands-on Reiki. Hands-on Reiki: Adapt the standard hand positions for humans to your pet. Some animals are much smaller, but the basic idea of anatomy is the same. Group Reiki: For larger animals, especially horses or large dogs, a few people can perform Reiki simultaneously, sending much love and healing at once. Giving Reiki to a sick animal helps the human companions of animals as much as it helps the animals themselves. As is the case for humans, Reiki healing sometimes leads to a curing of an animal's illness, but it may also lead to a peaceful death. Reiki doesn't change the natural order of events, but it enhances the experience by giving a dose of love.
Well my boys love to scatter their kitty litter everywhere, i try and use natural products, used clumping kitty litter for a while but after reading the posts here about how toxic it is.....i won't ever use it again. I realise now, that not everything on the market designed for cats is safe for them...foolishly i used to think that all products needed to be of a certain standard and needed to be rigorously tested and very safe before being released on the market...I now realise that is not necessarily the case, depending on what country you live in. So.......I am now wondering about the catcrystals.....which deodourise the tray and last for a whole month with regular removal of faeces......the urine is drawn to the bottom on the crystals. Not sure if hygenic or not.........hmmmmm
Until one day as he was sleeping, I noticed he had old man hiar in his ears. Been trimming his ear haor, and all the fur has grown back, and no more scratching. He now comes to me when it is time to trim the 'old man hair' in his ears.
Hi! Everyone -This is a Tip & also a Warning about a cleaning product called the Swifter jet that most of you are probably aware of & use, but apparently it's quite toxic & can cause cancer in our cats & dogs. This happened to a friends's pet; so I'm passing this advice along to you with hopes of not losing another pet from this.
This post was modified from its original form on 16 Sep, 9:52
Thanks for all the tips. We got here just fine. My mom gave me some herbal drops that were supposed to calm them down. It doesn't knock them out. It is just supposed to relax them. Only problem is they wouldn't let me give it to them. At first all of them were howling. Then just two of them. But Fluffy howled almost the whole way! His voice was hoarse by the time we got to TX. I tried to comfort them them best I could. I lied to them the whole way. I kept saying we're almost there or we'll be there in just a minute. They didn't believe me. When we stopped overnight I snuck them into the motel room and they all ran under the bed. I put food out for them and they all came flying out! And then right back under the bed.
Once we got here, Blacky and Missy adjusted well but Fluffy was mad. There is a vacant house next door and he would go over there and stay. He'd come over to eat but he'd go right back. He wouldn't play or let you pet him and would run away from us. After about 2 weeks he finally accepted his new home. Now, he is back to normal. They have been having fun chasing the crickets and other night time bugs.
Your kitty would be shown off better if you make a new topic with her picture in there. She is so gorgeous !
Was someone suppose to go to your house at 6:30 regarding your cats ear? You know we are not vets here, but if you describe a problem, then maybe someone can offer some helpful advice. I would suggest first that you click on to make a new topic, and also explain what is wrong with your cats ear.
I'm new on this groups. I love cats too and in this moment I have 2 and 4 my sister
I introduce you my cat called Trippa
Hi, I have none except take breaks because the yowling will drive you crazy! My Sassi hates to go anywhere. She flips out and after all these years, nothing changes it. I haven't found a thing to help ease her and help destress her.
I recall when I worked up north in the hospital (we had no vets), we'd give the cats a small dose of Gravol and the owner would get some for the road with instructions. Didn't take much for a cat to fall asleep and they'd sleep all the way south - which was over 20hours straight driving if not more, depending on weather and if you pulled off somewhere to sleep. Before you do that though, check with your vet. Oh and the cats had no after-effects from the Gravol either.
Good luck with the move.
I need some tips. We are getting ready to move next week and I need some tips from people who have moved with cats. This is the first big move we are making with our cats. We have 2 pet carriers, I need to get one more. We have already been getting them used to getting in them. So far, only one of them is throwing fits. My mother gave me some herbal drops that is supposed to relax them. But we have no idea how they are going to react. It is going to be a two-day trip. Then we are going to have to get them acclimated to the new place. It is going to be much warmer there.
So has anyone moved with cats? And can give me some pointers?
Sorry I haven't checked this thread. Yes, I tried the wheat litter, and liked it myself, but the cats didn't care for it. The stuff I had was orange, and it kind of pulverized as it was used. It seemed like it lasted a long time, but what I did was use my regular litter in half my boxes, and the wheat in the other. I have a feeling I was impressed at how long it was lasting ,because they weren't using it, and I thought they were. I didn't want to spring it on them all at once, so that is why I only did half my boxes with it.
I have a tip. I would like to reccommend Pet Promise cat food that is advertised here on Care2. As I mentioned in another post, we recently took in a stray cat (actually, the kids did and we didn't have the heart to make them not). Anyway, she was very skinny and sickly. She was nothing but skin and bones. She has a broken tail. It goes straight up from her body then makes a sharp 90 degree turn and goes horizontal. I have no idea how, why or how come someone would treat an animal that way. She was so hungry she would devour a whole can of cat food. But then she would vomit her food back up. And whatever food she did retain went right through her. This went on for a week or so. I know this sounds bad, but we didn't have the money to take her to the vet. And she slept all the time. All she did was eat and sleep. I decided to try Pet Promise to see if it would do her any good. For one thing, I got the dry food thinking that she could hold on to it more.
Well, what happened? She absolutely loved it!! And so did our other two cats. They could definately tell the difference between good cat food and cheap cat food. She started holding her food and gaining weight and looking better. Then one day she started playing with the kids. That was the first sign she was on the mends. And she started doing two other things that she hadn't been doing, purring and cleaning herself.
She is like a whole different cat now. She is happy. We are happy. I am glad she found us or we found her. She is such a sweetie. Her whole demeanor says, "Thank You." The kids named her Missy after my mom's 18 yr old cat that just recently passed away. They are similar in a lot of ways.
I don't know how much the cat food did to make her well, but I think it definately helped. Plus buying Pet Promise supports businesses that allow us to do what we do here at Care2. And it helps support organic, sustainable farmers that help the environment. It's a win-win situation for everyone involved.
The advantage would be a good idea for the Momma, and the blue dawn will work on the young kittens. Mine were very young when I put them in the sink, one at a time of course, and lathered the kitten up with the blue dawn. I kept it on as long as I could, as the kitties like to wiggle, and then rinsed them off and dried them with a towel. It killed the fleas.
If the advantage is on the mother's neck, any new fleas the kitten pick up will jump on her and die.
As for getting her spayed, wait until she seems to be done nursing them, and make real sure she doesn't get out the door, as they do go into heat while nursing sometimes. The Mother with 5 kittens that I took in was still nursing. The kittens were about 3 months old, and she was already pregnant with 8 more.
I figure at least 8 to 10 weeks when the kittens become independent food wise would be a good idea. 10 weeks is better, but play it by ear. Some Mothers nurse longer than others, and some push them away sooner.
I know how hard it is to get a comb through the kittens fur. I couldn't do it, but those fleas can kill a kitten. I do about 24 cats with advantage, and I try to pick out the worse ones flea wise, and then the fleas from the others jump on them and die, and it also helps with the fleas around the house too. Do lots of vacuuming every day for the eggs.
you wrote something to the affect..."I hope your friend kept the cat in..." - No, for a variety of reasons, the cat went back to being more of an outdoor than an indoor cat. On the other hand, I have a viewpoint that I am the human, they are the cat which makes it easier to deal with cats you really only know so well. Plus as one vet explained to me when I was explaining that really the cat he was dealing with had some serious claws and teeth, sometimes cats that are less docile in their own territory get scared enough when taken to the vet's/strange territory that they can be pretty reserved as long as they don't hit the terrified stage.
With respect to the order of treatment vs other treatments - I have always done the bath before doing anything else. Back in the day when we "sheep dipped" a cat we did the bathing and then the flea collar. I shudder to think what all we were using in terms of chemicals for both the cat and ourselves. Then, when "sheep dip" was outlawed and all we had was flea shampoo, I used to bathe, put on the collar, and then encourage the cat to frequent every corner they had been spending time in. If the flea population didn't get too far out of control, the cat with collar would take care of the corners and all of the other places they would lay. Undoubtedly this resulted in only slightly less chemical contamination for both cat and human. For the most part, I've always used the bath as an immediate flea attack; there is nothing like having the cat leave a deposit of fleas as is gets up off your lap. Then a collar or other agent for hatchlings, knits, or eggs.
I don't know about Advantage but, burried in the multi-paged poop sheet about Revolution it is suggested that the cat not be allowed out in the rain for 24 hours so as not to reduce its affectiveness. I definitely would bathe and then use the Revolution both for an immediate kill and also for the effectiveness of the secondary treatment. Traditionally, water reduces the effectiveness and/or lifetime of a collar as well. For the 24 hours after treatment, we attempt to not touch the neck area in which the Revolution was applied.
Our current cat is getting fussier and fussier as she ages. Although she came from a reasonable cat colony and has been somewhat accepting of the cats that have passed through and/or stayed a while, she is deciding that she most definitely is ready to be part of a single cat household - with verocity toward any that stray into the yard. We put down the last cat that stayed about three or four years ago now. I don't even have the containment/isolation cage on the back porch anymore; it used the deck as a base and was 4'x8'x4' with carpet topped storage shelves on the sides for sleeping berths. The cats of unknown origin and medical issues as well as the queens with kittens were put in the containment cage until they had been observed and then to the vet's. With the cage, I could do a Revolution treatment and the 24-48 hour wait before anyone came into the house. In the meanwhile, I would crawl in for socialization, companionship, and bonding. Of course this ment than any other cats in the household would join me on the outside of the cage which allowed for some slower and controlled introductions. We had a smaller cage for containing ferrals, ususally kittens, which stayed in the larger cage until a vet check etc...; then the smaller containment cage moved indoors and the taming began. So, I haven't had to flea bathe in a reasonably long while. - Thank goodness because whether it's your best bud or a hackle razed stray, it's a only a matter of time and always a crap shoot as to whether or not you're going to get seriously raked; all it takes is something happening or an extra noise to startle an already unhappy or scared cat!
In our area it is once again "kitten season" - the time during which unwanted kittens are being born in numbers. Speaking of which, do you want a kitten; I know of 19 of them that are available for adoption?
Please, if you have a female cat that has not been nuetered and you do not already have homes ready and waiting for kittens - please, please, please nueter your cat. In one case, the "cat escaped only once while in heat and only for four hours..." In many communities, there are organizations that will help you with the cost of nuetering. In many communities, a number of the pet store chains have low cost clinics or referals for nuetering as well as shots. If you have to, mention around that you would like to nueter your cat, just like networking for a job, but you are unable to afford the whole bill; you would be amazed at what you can discover. If cost is a prohibative factor for you, do call more than one vet and explain your plight. If you find that the hours of the vet "down the street" don't match your work hours thus driving up the cost, get out the yellow pages and call around; a surprising number of vet's offices now run regular priced, extended hours and days.
If you have a few spare dollars to spare, please consider helping someone to get their cat spayed or nuetered. If the kitten season in your area is anything like the kitten season in ours, at least one person you know will offer you a kitten. More often than not, those same people say something about how they should have gotten their cat neutered but..... This is your golden opportunity to offer to help them get their cat nuetered just as soon as the current kittens are weaned. Sometimes it's a cost factor, sometimes it's a scheduling factor, sometimes it's because they don't know who to go to, sometimes it's an aftercare factor, and equally often it's a procrastination factor.
Often people are most receptive to neutering just as the kittens are born and then again when they are running through the house and they've run out of readily adoptive parties. As soon as you hear the groan of "I think my cat may be pregnant", please consider thinking of what you are able and willing to do in terms of time or money. Then, as soon as you hear, "I really do need to get that cat fixed", please offer what you are able to and try to get a commitment out of that other person. More often than not, you will have to do the follow up..."You know, we were going to..." when the kittens are weaning.
All niceness aside, a number of hungry ferral cats running around is not a good thing. Especially if you have a cat and even more so if it is an indoor-outdoor cat. As they get hungry and over populate, they both become sick and aggressive.
A number of years ago now when we were better off financially, my boyfriend moved into an area where "everyone on the block" at had at least one kitten season or doorstep cat. And for every cat that more or less had a home there were multiple litter mates running wild. Of course those cats had kittens who were in turn having kittens. Not only was the ferral cat population growing geometrically two to three times a year, they were looking pretty ragged and raging on the more domesticated cats. This was a rural area and I believe that they were bringing in both coyte and moutain lion. (Most of these cats all began from one female in one household!) I started with one neighbor offering to pay for, transport, and deal with the aftercare of his female. I pretty much put out the word that I would get any of the neighborhood females fixed. Before it was done, I neutered 7 cats in 8 months; it was pretty easy since they didn't have to do anything including the aftercare if they didn't want to. (I did get some reduced fees and/or additional care on the last few because the vet appreciated what I was doing and, I was a frequent visitor. Of course, all of these cats were by definition "mine".) The last cat I did was from "down the street" a half a mile or so for a woman who really wanted to keep her cat but, it was decided that neither neutering nor kittens were in the family budget.
Another time in a different area, the person was willing and wanting to get their cat nuetered but, their work schedule was fully unpredictable and just didn't fit into regular office hours or scheduling a week out. They also needed aftercare for the time they weren't home. This was a predominately indoor, apartment cat but, the owner was fully aware how swiftly a cat in heat could get through a door. So, we scheduled the surgery according to my work schedule and they participated to the best of their work schedule ability. In the end, I picked the cat up from the vets but, they were home by the time we got there. And, I spent about 24 hours with it a couple of days later.
During kitten season, there are plenty of prevention opportunities. On this forum I'm probably preaching to the choir but, a prevention dollar goes so much further than donation dollar to a shelter. For goodness sake, those within the shelter system live predominately on donations which are also sorely needed. But, if you have a bit to offer specifically towards prevention and are able to, please consider prevention as well.
For those who aren't familiar with Revolution and other topical treatments be sure to read the instructions on bathing. I think you have to wait something like 3 days after bathing or 3 days after treatment to bathe (if you put it on too soon after bathing there aren't enough oils in the skin to pass it throughout the cat, if you bathe the cat too soon afterwards it washes off the treatment).
I "discovered" anti-bacterial soap before I discovered a product called Revolution:
Several years ago now, I was checking in on a friend's place and their medium legnthed, light colored haired cat for about two weeks. After the first visit and really paying attention to the cat, it became evident that it was flea infested and I was about to be. I only had a little three year old flea shampoo at my house but, a trip to the store showed that my old cat shampoo had more active ingredients than what was then being sold as large dog shampoo. Still I bought some.
Armed with the old and the new, I proceeded to bathe that poor cat. While fluffing him up, I discovered that the fleas had simply burried into the under coat, turned on end, and dug into his skin. Back to the kitchen sink we went with only the new shampoo at hand. There weren't as many floaters as there had been the shampooing before. And sure enough, they were plenty standing on end, burried in the poor cat's skin. So, we went back for a third trip to the kitchen sink. In desperation, I grabbed for a little dishwashing detergent and in those spots, the fleas were at least struggling in the cat's fur. Then my eye's rested on a container of yellow, Dial, anti-bacterial soap. A little dap of that produced floaters from the spot I rubbed soap into. Before it was done, that cat was fully bathed in anti-bacterial soap.
In the aftermath, the anti-bacterial soap apparently got the fleas, the knits, and the eggs. It is more than a little rough on the skin, particularly skin that is flea bitten. And, it is IMPARATIVE that ALL traces of anti-bacterial soap residue be washed out; anti-bacterial soap kills bacteria which is not a good thing in the intestinal tract. But, engorged fleas were no longer just falling off the cat as it lay. This particular cat had softer fur and was gaining weight by the time its owner came home two weeks later; agreed, it had become an indoor cat whether it liked it or not for that same time.
A year or two later, I ended up with a pretty ragged looking, pregnant homeless cat at my doorstep. I was not particularly jumping in to bathe this one nor, was I going to let it in the house until the fleas were dealt with. The vet that I took it to did a lot of work with ferral and homeless cats. When I asked about fleas, he suggested Revolution; it was their preference for ferral cats brought to them. It is a once a month topical similar to Advantage, not a cheap product, and is only available from a vet. I'm not sure about Advantage but, Revolution takes care of a number of critters that have a nematode stage including ring worm and cat heartworm; I didn't know cats had a form of heartworm. I find that it takes one to three months to get a cat relatively flea free with Revolution; undoubtly this takes into account additional fleas they are picking up as they go about their business.
The Revolution works quite well and in a heavily flea infested cat, there is a noticeable difference in scratching frequency within 24-48 hours. However, if immediate results are needed and you are able to get the cat both bathed AND throughly rinsed, anti-bacterial soap is swift.
" I tried all sorts of other sprays with her, including air freshener, Raid, Lysol, you name it."
Deb, did you spray your cat with this stuff?
I've been able to completely stop my cats scratching the furniture and carpets.
I got a long length of thick sisal and wrapped it round and round the bottom post of the bannisters. The cats now won't scratch anywere else but here.
In the past I had tried the sisal boards and posts but they did not work. I think this works because it is about 4 feet tall and also it is about 5 inches on each of the 4 sides.
The cats think it is a tree and stretch up to scratch it and even climb up it with their claws.
Hey everyone! Thank you so much for posting all the updates re: Pet Food recall. I always check back to read. I have started to make my own cat food (not going as well as I have hoped), but I am hearing that several of you have taken to making your own pet food also.
If you did decide to make your own pet food, please make sure you speak to your vet about the nutritional requirements of your pets. There are some things in pet foods that may not be included in home made meals. I have added a vitamin/mineral supplement to my cats diet.
My vet told me to be sure that my cats get Taurine (500 mg) because the home made diet I am doing is missing Taurine. I have been researching it a lot lately and it seems that it is essential for the nutritional health of pets. I have been sending email alerts of all the research/links I have found on the importance of Taurine in cat/dog diets. It's a lot of info and I'm not positive that you guys want me to post it all in here. I can though, maybe I will check with the group hosts.
In the meantime, if anyone is interested in having the info. just send me a message and I will get you what I have found. If you would like it to go to a different email account, just include the email address you would like it sent to. Also, I would love to hear what you guys are finding about Taurine, etc.
There is plenty of info. on the nutritional requirements of pets; the importance of Taurine in diets, etc on the internet. I have just been careful of the sites I go to for this info. I tend to shy away from .com sites for stuff like this. I find that I can almost always trust what I get from .org, .edu, .gov sites............
Take care and hope you all are well
Hi. I have had several cats in the past that had claws, and one decided that my straw sewing basket made a nice scratching place. It was all shredded on the ends. My current cat, Sally, had no claws when I got her but she still likes to use that same sewing basket to sharpen on. It is worth a try if you could find a used one perhaps.
Good advice here. Don't know about a squirt bottle; I think it depends on the cat. One cat I had was smart enough to "get it" when I sprayed "Boundary" on the furniture, which I did for 5-7 days. She left the furniture alone for the next 17 years; I provided her a flat cardboard box on the floor, which she loved to scratch. The other cat I had apparently had not a clue about "Boundary." I tried all sorts of other sprays with her, including air freshener, Raid, Lysol, you name it. I tried making loud noises when I caught her and saying "no," and even pulling her footsies off and saying "no." She apparently was clueless. Nothing worked. She eventually stopped scratching the furniture, at least when I was home, then figured out she could do it when I wasn't home...but I've heard that re-directing their attentions to where you want them to scratch (presuming you catch them) or putting foil or double-sided tape where you don't want them to scratch, but I never tried that...
Had a pet sitter a couple/three years ago when I was away and she would put an ice cube in the water bowl (she came by in the morning) so that the water would stay cool and not get warm in the warm house.
I've also heard about Borax being good for fleas, but don't have experience with that. I used a very strong spray, the name of which escapes me at the moment (I had originally got it at the vet, then found a similar product at Target), which not only killed the fleas but killed the eggs - it was the only thing that ever worked - I'd even spray it outside the front door or outside any doors so fleas would not track in (my cats were indoors only)....
Eventually, I was reduced to using Frontline - Advantage did not agree with my cats...
Gwen, I think the squirt bottle would be useless when it comes to a cat doing their claws. Your carpet must be a good scratching pad. I don't have carpet, but when I put throw rugs down the cats like to use them to do their claws.
Try making something for your kitty from material that the rug is made from. That is all I can think of to do, or piles up some throw rugs to let the kitty use, and maybe you can save your carpet that way.
If your cat does not like water you shouldn't put him in the water. They do clean themselves.
I always use a standard bathtub and clear all items away from it. I only fill it about 3-4 inches deep so the cat won't think it will drown so much. Then I place the cat so it is facing the tile wall at the back. I leave it free to attempt escape while I wash it, I genly push it back to the centre of the back wall but I don't try to hold it still. The cat can't launch away because everything is so slippery and it doesn't claw me because it is occupied with scrambling against the slippery tiles. To rinse I use a flexibel shower head or pre set pitchers of water. It does still require some agility but it works like a charm for me
My question: My cat scratches the carpet in the middle of the night while I am asleep. I wake up and can see she has done it but it is a little late for the squirt bottle. She uses her scratching post, but likes the carpet as well. Am I going to have to pull some all nighters with the squirt bottle at the ready?
again . . .
Just wanted to post a tip for those who like to brush their cats . . . or NEED to brush them and they don't like it!!! All cats need to be brushed, and with Tiffany, it's really important as she has a fine layer of "down" under her fur that mats easily; so . . . if you want your cat to get used to brushing, brush them for about 20 mins. a day to start (or until they just won't take it anymore!); keep this up in small doses, and at some point, they will love it.
Tiffers still doesn't always like it . . . especially at the beginning of spring when she loses her winter coat! She gets really upset . . . Now, however, she likes it . . . except when Mom accidentally hits a wee mat and it tugs on her skin. Then Mom gets bit, or scratched . . . whatever her pleasure at the moment.
Key though, is that with the right brush (and I use one of those silly plastic ones "Goody" I think?) they will warm to it in small doses. Then you get to the point where they nag you for it!
Yes, yes and yes again!!! If you catch one of them, it will die in the bag with the borax!!! I was so angry over the little buggers that when I combed them out I would put them in a sandwich bag with borax!!!
If you have wooden floors, if you can get it into the baseboards, it will help; however, some cats can be allergic to it if it's not well brushed into carpets; my poor Taku lost a bunch of hair and I thought it was something else; we had a waterbed and some of the borax didn't get rubbed in the way it needed to, and that's where he used to love to sleep during the day. It was hard to reach and I found some "clumps" when we go rid of the bed and that was it!!! His hair has grown back now . . . but we don't have any fleas!!!
Hope this helps!
Abi, The fleas die in the carpet or wherever they are, so of course if they are dead they won't bother you.
Thanks for the borax tip. I don't have carpeting, but I can put it around the baseboards I guess. I am having problems as usual in one particular room. I guess the supermarket will sell this?
Greetings and M-E-O-W . . .
There are some phenomenal tips here!!! So, I thought I would share a tip I have, given that we all have to combat those nasty little buggers called "fleas!!!"
Remember all those years ago when something called "Borax" was available? Well, it still is. And it's one of the best flea controllers I have ever found!!! Given that they like to get in around the baseboards and nest . . . growing exponentially and driving our babies nuts (particularly those that have allergies to fleas), so here's the tip:
Get a box of Borax (20 Mule Team) and spread on your carpets, or wherever you want to get them!!! *grrrrrrrrr* Then take a broom and brush it into the carpet deeply, making sure that there is no clumps of it anywhere and definitely assuring that it gets into the carpet around the baseboards. Within a few weeks, the fleas will be gone and our babies can rest without chewing themselves up! It's simple, convenient, and lasts for quite a long time.
Isn't it wonderful when there's a simple, inexpensive way to manage the little irritants?
Well the only tip I can provide at the moment is that there are 2 types of biting. With my cat, Salem, he play bites you, but its never hard enough to actually do anything. But you have to be careful to watch out, a cats demeanor (sp?) can change and you'll notice it too. So play biting can become "annoyed cat" biting if his/her mood changes.
Otherwise, its all in harmless fun
I would never dump anything like that in the toliet even if it states that it is safe because our pipes are a mess and that would probably create more problems. We have high mineral content in our water, especially iron and as a result, we have a ton of built-up in our pipes. I have to watch what I dump down because things can clog quickly.
Anyhow, my bathroom is tiny. I have my litter box in the storage room. I live in a very dry area. I really truly hated that litter. It was nasty!! As I mentioned my cat hated it too. She hated the texture and after one day, she'd cling to the side of the box and do all she could not to touch. It stunk so bad.
It's good that its working for you. It does make it handy that it is easily biodegradable too.
It just never happened for me.
Wow...that's amazing. Did you keep it in your bathroom? It says you aren't supposed to keep it near a lot of dampness...which I keep mine in my bathroom and it lasts a month or more. You just dump out the solid waste in the toilet and keep it mixed up with your scooper once a day.
Thanks for the reply!
Does anyone use the "crystal" litter? This works well for me. I used to use the clumping kind but this kind is so much LESS work!
I haven't seen anyone post anything about this kind of litter.
Thanks everyone for the litter tips. I'll give them a try.
Two of the varieties I know of that are sold in the US are ExquisiCat® Pine Cat Litter and Feline Pine® Cat Litter by Nature's Earth Products. Both of these are available at PetSmart and other pet centres. I know there are at least another two brands, but I'll be danged if I can remember the names of them right now.
Give them a try and see how you get on. To me this kind of litter is the best you can buy, it's great for everything including ease of disposal.
Sugar, does it scrape the bottom of the box if I am using scoopable? The metal scooper from petsmart is REALLY heavy. My scooper hand is not the injured one with the bad wrist, but the first 2 fingers are getting sore and stiffened, so scooping is a killer, and I have so much of it to do. My wrist is no better, and it feels like the vein is burning sometimes when I use it too much.
Arline I have been using Fresh Step for many years. What is the name of this wood litter? I am willing to experiment a little with it. Thanks,
Hi Donna, the 'skimmer' I bought isn't a pooper scooper, but a cooking utensil. It gets under the 'poop' really good. The made for scooping poop just doesn't work, metal or otherwise any more. And it doesn't seem heavy to me, but then I don't have a sore hand/wrist thank goodness. Is yours getting any better?
I have found that the best litter to use for MANY reasons, including those of the 3 R's, are the wood pellets. Not only do these absorb the urine well, they really are great at eliminating the odour and can be so easily disposed of in an eco friendly manner.
When my cats poop, I simply scoop out what they've done and flush it down the toilet, then every second day I completely empty the litter tray all together and add it to our compost heap, where it can happily biodegrade If you don't have a compost heap, you can always just bag the sawdust waste up and put it in the trash (preferably in a paper bag or some other biodegradable container) and even when it goes to landfill it's not going to cause any problems.
I hope that this helps, even a little.
Has any one noticed how chintzy and poorly designed pooper scoopers are now? I have solved that problem.....at my local grocery store, Kroger's, I bought a 'Everyday Living' skimmer. It is fantastic! I bought 2 just in case they quit selling them. They are medal and slide under the heaviest loads with no cracking and breaking. They are a good size too, not too big and not too little, just right! You will find them in the kitchen utensil aisle.
Hi Kash, nice to see you back again.
About the litter, I do mine the same way, and I also use a lot of it too. The way we use to do it was to get regular unclumping litter, and we use to rototille an area along our property, and throw it there. You can use chicken feed as litter too. The scoopable will turn to rock out there, but the other is ok.
just a quick note to say hello to every oneand appologise for not being in touch with you- I have been a bit busy with work and trying to get a few projects moving faster. The holidays as well, leaving no time . love and miss and hope to hear from all of you.my heart goes out to you for you loss hon. I too have lost many people this year. Hopes are that many people will be gained in the near future as well, though. ever hopefull !
I've got three cats and currently use Arm & Hammer clumping litter, which I scoop into a plastic bag every morning and discard in the garbage. I'm really aware of the environment and try to do everything I can to follow the 3 Rs--reduce, reuse, recycle--so this practise is really bothering me. Other than using one of the flushable litters, I really resist this because of the amount that would be flushed, does anyone have a good way of disposing litter other than the way I am currenlty doing it? Thanks.
These are all available from Drs. Foster & Smith, www.drsfostersmith.com. I know that Foster & Smith has the products because I get their catalogs, but I'm sure that you can get them at any major pet store on or off line.
Hope this helps!
I purchased an cat electric water fountain for my cat because she stopped drinking her water but would let me know that she wanted water. I think it was that the water was stale and stagnant. I got this last year at a trade show and its the best! She really likes it. It also helps to keep the water cool which is perfect in the summer. I also add ice cubes in the summer to keep it cool. I bought one for a friend as her cat loved to play in water and wouldn't drink from anything but a running tap. It took a couple days to convince the "princess" that this was as great as the tap ... and finally she took off on it and loved it too. Some people say its bad as the water isn't fresh, people don't fill it enough but seriously don't know how that can happen. I have one cat and have to refill every 3 days or it goes dry. Anyhow, thought I'd share about that.
I had a couple cats in my past who werer very affectionate and craved being cuddled. One in particular, Max, he also would get tummy aches and really loved to be cuddled when it bugged him. I took T-Touch (form of animal massage) and shifted it to suit my cats. Max loved his belly massaged. Another cat loved his back massaged. Slow gentle rolling massages. It also helps to build that bond between you and your cat.
Another bonding action that is very peaceful is companion breathing. I do this with my surviving cat, after his or her sibling passes away. Or after trauma and/or deaths in my circle of family and friends, affects my life - as my cat is affected by my mood. With this, you light a candle, darken the room, put on soft gentle music and then, lay on your back in a comfortable spot with your cat laying on your stomach up to your chest. Place your hands soft over top, so that you are resting on the back of your cat. Become very conscious of your breathing and your cat's breathing. Relax into the spot you are laying on and allow the stress to release from your body. As you become more conscious of your breathing and your cat's breathing, you will start to notice that you are breathing wtih your cat. Allow this to happen, settle into it, focus on the breathing, the warm weight of your cat, the music. Then,,,you have a choice. You may remain quiet and continue OR you can talk about why you are doing this. For instance, when Max died, I did this with my baby Sassi. I talked very soft and gentle about how loving Max was, all the beautiful things he did for his baby girl Sassi and how much we'll miss him. Sassi is a cat who HATES to be held but this, she allowed me to do. I find there isn't a cat yet that has resisted this. Prior to this, Sassi was mourning Max - was crying, searching for him and stopped eating. After we did this, she was calm and started to eat again. I believe all living creatures need love and support in times of stress, trauma and deaths - which is why I believe this is a very strong bonding action for both us and our cats.
Hi Patti, my Rhubarb loved to ride too. Thankfully we never had a problem, but that is just thanks to God. Rhubarb lived to be 21.
Jessica and Sugar,
When I was younger I used to take my black long- haired cat, Misty, everywhere with me in the car. She even went to the drive-in on a regular basis. We had many great times driving around together.
As I got older, I realized that when I had a cat roaming in my car it could get dangerous, as they can get stuck under the seats (happened once to me) or go near the brake or gas pedal (happened to me) which could cause a serious accident.
I think it is a very good investment to get a carrier. They are available very cheap now and can be strapped to the car for safety. You never know what will happen...
Just my two cents worth!
Jessica, I am such a worry wart that I don't take my cats any where without a carrier now. I used to take Rhubarb that way because I didn't have a carrier and never thought about a problem. He didn't mind riding at all. I heard a couple of horror stories and since then they go in a carrier regardless. I feel safer. I don't know how good it would be in a horrible crash, but just a simple fender bender I know it would keep them in the car and safe. I use the seat belt on the carrier. Also if I were to get pulled over for any reason I wouldn't have to worry about the officer making me leave the car door open. That has happened to people and they lost their pet. There was a case in the last few years that made the news.
I hope some others respond to this post. It is a very important issue and I would like to hear from others. Thanks for bringing it up.
if you cat is under weight, and you own another cat, some good asdvice is to have the other cat tell him that he needs to eat more
(cats listen when you tell them to do things, even though they might not show it)
1) if your cat is in pain, stay with it and help it out, with your there the cat is less likely to cry (and they do cry) cats need that attention so much.
2) let your cat sleep wherever he or she is comfortable may it be your bed, couch, chest, lap, or bathtub. cats enjoy sleeping in bizzarre places, and this should not be thaken for granted
like i said, in the tub...
3) however hard it might be, dont soil your cat rotten, or else they might have problems later in life....serious problems
Thank you for the posting, hes aprox 4-5 weeks only, incase that makes a difference.
Thanks so much,
He sure is a sweet looking kitty. I will make a post for you asking how others deal with their allergies to cats. Look for it. I am sure different ones will add their comments to it.
to our cat lovers board.
Hello all my name is Kim and I have a new kitty named Salem. I have had Salem for 3 days now and it's seems my eyes are swollen and nose is all stuffed....I really want to keep him, he's such a love and he stole my heart from the beginning...Is there anything I can do that anyone knows about to maybe shampoo him in something, or use wipeys on him, a spray...anything?? He's about 5 weeks Im guessing...Thank you for any input....I really want to keep him and so do the kids.
Kim and Salem
Looks like him when hes a bit bigger, he's a Manie Coon Kitty..
I used to have a hard time giving my cat a bath when needed. So one day I decided to try something new that I had heard about.
If and when you give a cat a bath try putting a window screen in the water before the cat. Once ready to put the cat in, the cat will be on the screen and will hook its claws in the screen and supposedly this is suppose to make it feel more secure.
Dont ask me how, but I tried it with one of my 3 cats and he barely freaked out once while I had him in the bath.
Hope this cat bath tip helps.
Have a meowing good day,
I still wouldn't trust that without a leash thing though, and I also wouldn't trust going out with one, as if a dog came running up to the cat the cat might not get away in time, or the cat will be way up a tree if she broke loose from the leash. OR, a dog might attack the cat while the cats Mommy was holding her.
It is odd that cats wouldn't like the mint since they like cat nip, but not all cats have that cat nip gene either which is strange.
While cats usually like catnip, they do not seem to like mint. The only way I could keep one cat I had out of certain things was to sprinkle mint on it.
I met a guty who walked his cat without a leash. He started wit it at the park when it was still a kitten. The cat learned to stay reletively near him and come to him when he called its name, which made it possible for him to go through the park with the cat without having to worry about the cat running off.
With all our "babies" various things have worked for many of the problems I've seen asked about. For twelve years, "Senior" could be detered from virtually all "unaccecptable" behavior by the simple wagging of a finger. She hated to "disappoint" dad, and only twice in her first 12 years had she ever jumped on a counter or stove. The second time was only to point out a spider - she hates spiders. Only after the addition of two rescued feral kittens has she started to use a corner of a table as an escape and refuge, which we turn a blind eye to.
But for the others, aluminum foil has always done the trick. Slightly crinkled up, they hate the sound and feel of it when they jump on it, so the don't stay.
Currently we have seven "kitte`s". Each one of them has a separate, distinctive call we use to get them to come. We avoid the "Here kitty kitty kitty" for any of them, even though they are all indoor cats, we have known of others lured away for whatever purpose someone else has had for them - including one cat that was fed to a neighbor's snake.
We maintain over a dozen feral colonies. While it has been over two years since any kittens have been born into those colonies, we still get cats dumped or abandoned by their caretakers. These cats don't always know or have the means of caring for themselves, and are not always welcomed with open paws into an existing colony. I'm not speaking to the members here, but those you may know or live next to - especially in a military community where the people are often transient and think their cats can and will take care of themselves. While they make arrangements for their spouses and human children, pets are often an after thought (please refer military personel to "Operation Noble Foster" for homes for their pets).
This has hit home, hard, with our group this year as one of our colonies, near an apartment complex, has been devasted with feline aids this past summer. We lost 50 cats to the extreme heat and feline aids. I'm sorry I don't have a happy ending to this story; I'm just begging each and every one of you to spread the word that we don't always know what dangers ours and other peoples cats face, be they "indoor-outdoor" cats or those left behind. The manager of that apartment complex has been one of the best and easiest to work with the past couple years, and has been working with us to let all her residents know about the situation and educate them, and the number of free-ranging domestic cats has dropped to zero, and in the past three months not a single resident has left their cats behind. That is a start, and will take a constant effort on everyone's part.
This isn't what I intended to write in this forum - it just flowed. I apologize if it became "off-topic". It belongs in our website's "Litterbox" section, but I haven't had time in months to work on it, dealing with the search-and-recover operations lately. With all the cat lovers here, I hope some of you will be brave enough to speak out to your neighbors if needed - it can be a hard thing to do. By now you'd think I'd have a much harder skin after four years and 500 and more cats under our care, but this old war dog still cries for every lost cat, something I never used to do for anyone.
Spots and Stripes
I posted this to another topic before I realized this one is for helpful "tips". Haven't read them all yet, but there are definitely some interesting ones here. I'm read several posts in other topics that indicate that many of us have a problem with our cats spraying. We haven't been able to completely eliminate it, but we have certainly been able to tremendously reduce it and eliminate any stains or ordor. Here's what I posted on the other thread:
Kim, I certainly understand the difficult situation being caused by Phoenix (and all cats) spraying. My husband and I thought we'd go crazy - the cats were destroying the house and I couldn't keep up with the cleaning.
Ed and I love cats and we care for a colony of feral cats outside (70+), but we have our "special needs" furbabies inside. Upstairs, we have 12 cats - 11 neutered males and one little girl (Aya). We recently finished the basement into a small apartment and have 5 downstairs (2 males and 3 females).
Long story short - we never had a problem until we brought one of the feral males inside after a very extensive surgery. He had been badly mauled by dogs, but we were able to save him. After his recovery, he couldn't go back out (or we couldn't let him back out), so our inside family grew once again. Then the spraying started. It was so bad that our electrician has had to replace outlets (even the 220 dryer outlet) and several switches, not to mention the general damage that was being done to the house.
With the help of our Vet, we have found two products that are worth their weight in gold! The first is called Urine Off It's a product that totally neutralizes the uric acid and proteins and completely cleans the area sprayed. You can use it all surfaces and fabric without any problems. You can even remove it from carpet and padding - just be sure to follow the directions. The main thing is to eliminate the urine, not just clean it with a detergent or the cats will remark the same place over and over in addition to finding new places. Actually, detergent cleaners just spread it and make the spot bigger. The faster you catch a place, the better, but this product will even remove old urine. You can buy smaller sizes, but we buy it by the gallon and keep smaller spray bottles in various places to treat any spot we see. Here's a link to the product on line. We get it through our Vet and don't pay the shipping charges.
The other product we use - especially when we have the house open and no air conditioning going is a phreomone diffuser called Feliway. It really calms them down. We have 6 diffusers throughout the house. We plug them in near the outside doors and the windows because that seems to be the worse places when the outside cats come near the house. They also help calm everyone down when there is going to be company that disrupts the normal routine of the household.
Here's a link to information about it - your vet can get the diffusers and refills for you
It took us quite a while to find the products that work the best. We tried the medication route and I spent every spare minute cleaning. Now the situation is greatly improved and we are at a point that even though there is occassional spraying, it's manageable. Oh yes, all the male cats are neutered and females spayed.
I hope this helps and I'll be more than happy to answer any questions anyone has about this. It has saved our home and our sanity.
Ed and I both feel that we're the ones who brought all our furbabies into the house and it was our responsibility to find a solution to the problem. They're just "doing what they do". Thankfully they now do it a lot less often
one of the tricks I used, my cats are stubborn, so I used many tricks, is putting a pan of water on the counter, those thin pizza pans or baking sheets, I get cheap ones from the dollar store for this. Put some water in it, and when the cat jumps on the counter, DANG! his feet get wet! LOL, the first time I did this, one of my cats waited about ten minutes after I went to bed, and jumped up, I laughed as I cleaned up the water and the pan. He hated the crash of the pan, and the fact he got wet feet.
Once in awhile now I still put an empty pan up there, hanging off the edge just enough so he can see it. Doesnt always work, he learned to jump around it.
He also hates citrus, the others just dont like it, but this one has a real problem with it. So an orange peel, or a lemon, which I always have, green clean with lemon juice. For some reason, banana peels work also, he is scared of them. I swear this one is a wuss, and he is the biggest! Biggest ego too. He is the one in the avatar.
A daily frolic for your feline friends reaps healthy rewards.
Fetch,chase and catch all sounda like games you would play with a puppy.But your kitten needs an exercise routine too.These games can help you begin a lifetime of healthy fun for you and your fuzzy feline.
Without your encouragement,your kitten can become bored and stop taking the initiative to play as they grow older.And contrary to popular belief,cats don't necessarily get all the exercise they need playing by themselves.
your cats may need a little push,depending on their age and breed.For example a Siamese kitten may play non-stop,while a Persian may prefer a quiet nap in the windowsill.
Just as humans,exercise for cats is an important step toward good health and a balanced life.After all,regular exercise helps prevent obesity,improves your felines physical condition,teaches social skills and helps prevent bad behvior.
Ready for a little fun with your cuddly furball?Start today.Take your kitty for a walk my cats love it when I take them for a walk.Just try it and see.You will be so proud to have them by your side..Nutter~Butter wont leave my side..And when I go for a walk I dont even call him he is already on his way..He knows What momma is up to..People talk to me all the time.They think that it is so cute to have my kitty follow me.I get remarks all of the time..And so will you.
Hope this was helpful!
I am not sure if this is already recorded in this group somewhere ~ but in case it's not I will share this as it is something even a lot of Vet's are not aware of ~ but TOMATO is toxic to cats ~ it is the substance called " Solanine" ~ it poisons them slowly!
I only found this out myself as I talked with a Vet about my own disease one day and mentioned that I am allergic to this and so cannot eat tomato ~ in fact I am allergic to 90% of the food in the world ~ so I live a very unique lifestyle! During many years of research I also found out that Gluten is not good for our animals either and can damage their digestive system in the same way that it does to people like myself! However just as Gluten is on most products on our supermarket shelves so is it in most Petfoods also used as a preservative as well as its other abundant uses!
Unfortunately, I still do, but I don't do it around my kids or my pets. Animals can get lung cancer, too.
I don't want to sound like a billboard for lung cancer, but if you can't quit, please go outside to smoke.
Cat Litter Dust Causes Breething Problems So I Switched to Healthy Pet Natural Grain Cat Litter. =)
Natural grain enzymes neutralize ammonia odor. Non-stick formula prevents wet litter from sticking to the bottom of the box. Free of harmful, irritating clay dust. Flushable.
(I found it in PetsMart)
Have vet do tests to determine the type of kidney problem.
Bathe cat once a week in plain castile shampoo from health food store to wash off danderuff so cat does not lick it off and recycle his own wastes.
provide warmth and a snug retreat.
Provide plenty of spring or distilled water.
Alkalize system by giving one or 2 drops of goldenseal elixir before bed.
feed diet high in carbs with proteins carefully balanced, and eliminate all chemicals.
Encourage exercise so breathing will deepen and the lungs will rid the body of more carbon dioxide and other wastes in the exhalations.
Diet for the cat with Kidney problems
Spring or distilled water
4 parts carbohydrate: Pureed barley flakes, and or baby food creamed corn.
2 parts protein: Lightly broiled chicken or beef or raw organic egg yolk and cooked white (used with meat, not alone) You can also use baby food chicken.
one part veggies: chopped or finely grated raw veggies or veggie juice-carrots, zucchini or alfalfa sprouts are best
2 tbs vita mineral mix. I didn't put that in yet. It is on another page.
2 tsps of soft butter
Blend above ingredients together, and store in glass jar.
Because nutrients are washed out quickly in the copius urine, it is good to feed kindney patients 3 or 4 times a day.
one quarter cup med. fat hamburger or other fatty meat
One quarter cup cooked kidney or azuki beans
one quarter cup cooked barley or brown rice
2 tbs of creamed cottage cheese
1 tbs of chopped parsley or other veggie
Daily supplements as recommended
Simply combine and serve.
1 large egg
1 cup of lean or organ meat
one half cup cooked barley or brown rice
1 table spoon of grated parsnip, parsley or other veggie
1 tsp of oil
Daily supplements as recommended. ( that is in this book too)
Combine the ingredients and serve.
When one of my cats from years ago had the crystal problem he was on Hills CD for 6 months, and do the cost of it, and the fact that the company didn't recommend him being on it for longer than 6 months, I changed to the Science diet original feline maintenance. He did well on it, and it was ok to feed the others. It was when I wasn't looking and he got up to get into the others food that the problem came back.
I did buy some in the can too, but I don't think it went over well. I just felt like the canned would be good for the water content.
Not sure about the Kidney diet. I should have a recipe for it in my Pitcairn book if you would like me to check it out.
3 posts down you said if I am worried about getting a brain tumor from the microwave. That is why I said I never said I was worried about getting a brain tumor from the microwave.
I did HEAR that you can get one if you have your head up next to it. I never said that I was worried. I said I stack and put away my dishes which is right under the microwave, and it is usually runny. Maybe you meant YOU as in other people, not me. If I was all that worried I would not do it. I have no great desire to live to be very old on this planet.
Thank you Sid. I also heard that borax works well too. I don't have carpets here.
Salt is good for getting rid of the slugs on the porch or near the pet food bowls.
if you are worried about getting a brain tumor from your microwave oven all you have to do is UNPLUG it when not in use.
O.K. I'm off my soapbox for now!
Yes, you might have a problem with radation if you turn on your microwave oven and stand right infront of it for an hour everyday but who reallly does that?
Otherwise, you're safe!
The only thing I heard was that the food breaks down somehow and causes high cholesterol, and as far as cancer goes, it has something to do with the rays or whatever they are called, ossibly leaking through the door.
Whatever it is they say to stay away from alarm clocks and tvs or rather to keep a safe distance from them is what I am talking about. Radiation, that's it.
I heat my canned cat food in my microwave oven for the whole of 7 seconds with complete confidence in the retention of nutrients. This will NOT cause cancer!
As a scientist and consumer advocate I get very annoyed when rumors are spread based on misinterpretations of the published scientific literature and relience on so-called studies that were never published in peer-reviewed scientific journals.
You can bet that if microwave ovens were found to cause cancer by eating the food and alter or destroy nutrients then there would be public health statements being made by The National Institutes of Health and by numerous other organizations that exist to support and inform Americans about public health.
Published review paper on nutrients and microwave ovens
"Microwave-oven technology has been improved by the use of low power. With the utilization of low-power techniques, studies showed equal or better retention of nutrients for microwave, as compared with conventional, reheated foods for thiamin, riboflavin, pyridoxine, folacin, and ascorbic acid. Beef roasts microwaved at "simmer" were comparable with conventionally cooked roasts in sensory quality, while vegetables cooked by an institutional (1,150 w) microwave oven were superior to those cooked in a domestic (550 w) microwave oven. Microwave-cooked bacon had lower levels of nitrosamines than conventionally cooked bacon"
Mari you sound like me. I have anywhere from 7 to around 9 different dry foods out, and the canned or cooked for breakfast and dinner. I have noticed that my cats really like eating around 10 or 11 at night too, and that is when they are more enthusiastic about eating.
That's interesting Kathy, I heard something about the microwave breaking down the structure of the food in some way, and was also told that if we have high cholesterol they will make it worse.
Most everything else I heard was that they cause cancer if you are too close to one. I do use mine, but for the cat food in cans I actually prefer the method of using a large bucket with very hot water to soak the cans while I drink my coffee. By the time I am done, the juices come out real nice from the cans.
Thanks for the information about the revolution. I did get a page of that a while back for sneaking up on my ferals with, and also for the cats that wouldn't let me touch their ears. I otherwise use advantage.
Lilith, that is an interesting site, but I didn't agree with some of her answers.
Nobody knows your cat better than you. Sometimes, though, a cat’s behavior or physical condition can perplex even the most watchful of owners. If you have a question or need an informed opinion, our team of mentors is here for you. Highly qualified, experienced cat care specialists—and cat lovers, to boot—they are available to provide answers, no matter what your cat’s life stage.
If you develop severe reactions to your cat, consult an allergist.
Maybe you could sit outside with your company. I don't have company that is allergic to cats, but my one sister looks concerned about getting cat hair on her clothes. My other one is afraid of their claws as they climb up her leg. Needless to say, I don't see much of them.
Maybe you could give them a benedryl at the door if they want to come in.
Do they sneeze? I am always suspecting people that say they are allergic really don't like cats, or are afraid of them, however I know that some really are allergic.
Maybe if the person is only going to be there for a half hour or so, you can put your kitty in the bedroom. Any longer than that I would suggest they stay on the porch. Heck, get them a chair and a soda.
Your cat, unfortunately, can't tell you exactly where it hurts. While cats can’t speak, they can give you warning signs to alert you to the fact that they're not feeling well. Armed with our list of common cat health problems, you’ll be able to better understand what symptoms to look for—and what may be causing your kitty's problem. More>>
Wow, lots of great information here. Sorry, I haven't been tracking it to close. Advantage for fleas, most definitely. A VACUUM...Moto would be on the dang ceiling if I did that, wish she did like it. She is 15 lbs and about 4 lbs of that is fur. Thanks to everybody for all the great links...Karenlee and "Moto"
Great tip Kristi,
I have a cat with that dandruff stuff all over his fur, and I have the omega 6 fish oil capsules. I will have to get them out and use them. It might be some trouble getting enough in to him though, as he is not one of those cats that munch down on any sizable amount of food at one time, and he is fat too. He must be the midnight muncher, or the closet eater.
They are large flakes on him, not the small dots that some cats might have on their fur. He also has loads of flea dirt when I comb him, and I can't find any fleas on him. I just combed him pretty good yesterday.
My black cat, Gaby had dandruff looking stuff on her fur so I took her to the vet. He asked me what kind of food I fed her and I told him the hairball-light formula. He said that she was having this problem because that food doesn't have Omega fatty acids in it or doesn't have a type of it in there that she needs for her skin. So, he told me to get the fish oil supplements for humans not cats. He said they are exactly the same except for the price. The ones for cats were outrageous! I bought I think 40 capsules for $2 something...I puncture the capsule with a safety pin and he told me to put one capsule per 1 cup of food and I stir it around a bit so it is evenly distributed. No more dandruff or dry skin for either kitty. My other cat is mostly white so I never even noticed it on her!
Thank you Lilith,
That was an awful lot of information to grasp at one time, but I did find out that Sparkles and Tabby are silver tabbies. I thought they were ticked as they have a silver undercoat.
I thought the classic tabby was a Mackeral tabby. I sure am dumb.
Advantage is great! (Hartz now has a similar product which is also very effective.) Our cats are strictly indoor, but occasionally the dog will bring home a few fleas from the dog park. I noticed that after treating only the dog with Advantage, it gets rid of any fleas which may have been on the cats, as well.
It is important to note, however, that Advantage for dogs CAN NOT be used on cats.
My poor Buddy looks awful! combing during a massive outbreak is like trying to sweep the porch in a dust storm! I'll get my tubes out, and place one on larry and see how it goes. I loved the advantage, this was my first year trying it! Worked great! Did the flea club start selling it again? I haven't looked.
upside down threads make me dizzy,
I thought you had reveresed the thread?
This is convenient, but it is very hard for me to read upside down.
If they get on your kitty with the fleas, they are going to die. If he gets near the other ones, their fleas will hop on and die too. LOL Death to the fleas.
Gosh, I hope the fleas don't come back again, although some of mine do have a few left. The frontline spray that my neighbor gave me did not do a good advantage type job, but I only sprayed a drop on their back. I didn't want them licking it.
The ticks are back again. JC had 2 on him. One was full of blood, and I caught the other one crawling on his back, and they don't normally get ticks in that yard, unless he is laying near the hedgerow.
That tree limb is still there hanging. Jimmy doesn't want to try to climb a ladder with the chain saw when half the time he loses his balance just walking.
Well it is time for me to try to go to sleep. I have a busy day tomorrow, and there is someone coming here to inspect the house at noon. I have to zip around here doing boxes, and get some of my cats out the door, and some in the spare room. It will still look like I have a lot of cats, but not to me. LOL I just hope they don't poop as he is coming in the door.
I am hoping to get a new heater and air combo unit.
Don't think you gave bad tips. Actually, my vet never said a word about the garlic either, but I was giving a very low dose pill. Garlic is a natural antibiotic. It is only recently I believe that garlic was touted a danger. I would think that it might be in strong doses such as the table spoon of powdered that you mentioned. My cat was biting and chewing and jumping and running, and I didn't know what the problem was, so I turned to the little garlic pills for a week or so, and it all stopped. I didn't see fleas, so I just didn't know, and I started reaching for one of my natural remedies.
Tips are good, and we learn from them, whether it is good or not good. That is how we get our information.
Here goes a good tip that you might even know. Corn starch for any raw sores to soothe the stinging. It is so silky.
And thank you for your tips too.
Glad to know that about garlic and kitties, wonder why the vet didn't tell me this??? Hmmm me thinks it is time to find a new vet.
Also with the vinager/water mixture in the spray bottle, it is only a couple of drops, ei no burning when accidently getting in the eyes. This tip was given to me by a vet in California. I usually don't resort to the spray bottle though. Yearah knows when she is doing something wrong when I give her the dreaded mommy is mad look. (You know the one, where you put a hand on your hip, and a hand on your forhead shaking it back and forth, saying something like this, "What am I going to do with you".)
Another thing you could use the "spray bottle" for is take if off stream, do the same mixture but put it on mist, spray your kitty with it (avoid head because they don't like being sprayed on the head) rub it in really good. It helps with the preventitive measure about fleas.
The dawn dishsoap works really well for kittens/puppies not yet old enough to use regular flea/tic shampoos. I found that one out by accident, I bathed my kitty in it, I thought I was reaching for her shampoo, and grabbed the dawn instead.
I am sorry that I gave bad tips. I feel really bad, and I hope none of y'all think less of me.
I see a couple of problems with your tips. Garlic is suppose to be bad for kitties to eat, as well as onions, as it is suppose to cuase an anemia.
It would seem to me that we would have to be very careful not to get that water spray in their eyes, as it would burn. For instance if you aim it in the direction of the cat, and the cat turns his head and the water gets in his eyes, the vinegar would burn them.
Thank you for the tip of the vinegar in the water. That is very interesting. I had a problem recently because my small kittens were infested with fleas, and I could not use the advantage, so someone told me to use blue dawn dish washing liquid. You put a streak down the back of the kitten, and rub it around, and add just a little water to lather it up, and keep it on for about 5 minutes, and then rinse. It worked well, but for the older ones, I do not bathe them. I give them advantage on the back of their neck. I do a third of my cats, and the fleas from the others jump on them and die.
Here is a couple of tips that I have not seen in the thread. The first one being as i do not use ANY sort of flea treatment on the market, I had to come up with something. So I had heard from somewhere that if you get a can of moist food as a "treat" and mix it with about a tablespoon of powdered garlic it will get rid of fleas. I asked the vet first and she said it would work because in essence fleas do not like the taste of their blood.
Second tip, I was told that if you put a cup of vinager in your kitties bathwater it would get rid of fleas, as with the first tip I asked a vet if this would harm my kitty. Again the vet said no. So I tried it, you would be amazed how many fleas we got off Yearah. (She primarily outside kitten.) To take it a step further, a couple of drops of vinegar in the spray bottle will help with unruly cats that get "used" to a regular spray bottle. Also I put a few drops of vinegar in her drinking water to help keep the fleas gone, at first she didn't like the water, but now she doesn't know the difference. I hope I could be of some help with fleas...
One of our cats likes peas, too! And so does the dog.
Here are my tips:
- Kittens who are touched, held, pet and shown a great deal of attention from a very early age, are more likely to become super-affectionate, people-friendly lap-cats. It is what's known as "gentling".
- Keep your cats indoors! Cats who live outside are exposed to too many dangers - disease, dogs, cars, predators, ect. and have a life expectancy of only 3-5 years. Indoor cats, who are safe, secure, warm and dry have a much better quality of life - and can live past the age of 20.
- Cats love to sit by the window - they love the warmth of the sun and find endless amusement in observing the birds, leaves, cars and people outside.
- If you work and your cat spends most of the day all alone - he or she may become depressed or anxious. Leaving the television or radio on at a low volume or placing something of yours - such as a sweatshirt or blanket in kitty's favorite sleeping spots, can provide comfort while you are away.
- Gently draping a towel over your cat's head will make blow-drying a lot easier for both of you; as most cats are frightened by the noise.
- Always make sure that your cat is wearing a collar with an identification tag - even if he or she lives strictly indoors. You never know when there may be an emergency - including fires, floods, earthquakes - or even leaving the door open for a few seconds - which is long enough for a curious kitty to slip outside.
- PLEASE, Please spay and neuter!!!
I tried it, and it works. Place your cat food bowls in a pan of water. No ants got in, and there were actually dead flies in the pan of water. I have been having trouble with very tiny red ants. If I didn't have my glasses on I would not know they were there, as the look like cayenne pepper in the bowl, and it takes good eye sight to see them moving, but there are billions of these awful things, and they will get in the food.
I have several bowls in one of the yards that I put in a huge dog house for them to get out of the rain. Instead of using single bowls, I used a large party tray that is an inch high, and filled it with water before putting the bowls in. I think the only problem will be that I will have to keep emptying the water out because the cats were getting their dry food knocked out of the bowls, and the water will stink.
Aluminum pie plates for just a couple of bowls should work nice.
Good to see you. Thanks for letting us know about the softened food spoiling quickly. I check the food outside every day, and I squeeze the food between my fingers. If it is not crunchy I throw it out.
I have always kept dry food and canned food separate.I put dry kitten food down when they are old enough to eat it, but if they aren't, then I make sure they have plenty of canned. It is higher in protein anyway. I consider the dry food a convenience to keep them fed in between meals.
The bums had baked chicken tonight for dinner. Nope, I didn't bake it. I bought several chickens already baked. I did buy their favorite bloneless chicken today though, as they like it pan fried. That has more flavor.
Of course a certain few don't deserve any of it. I am on my third keyboard this week !!!!
Now if I leave the computer for a minute I am putting the keyboard in a box.
Sorry I haven't been here in a while. Really busy! But I was reading down through these posts and far back among them I saw one regarding "moistening" dry cat food.
I just wanted to comment. As, I think it was Donna said, It isn't really necessary to moisten the dry food and it does draw moisture if it is left outside.
HOWEVER, I also wanted to comment that moistened cat food spoils very quickly. Especially during the hot humid days we have been having here in Ohio recently. Cats, being cats, (!) like to come and go and nibble all day long. They will gobble their canned food and then want to leave the "dry" to snack on later. ( My cats eat all night and day, if we let them. They even complain when the level of food gets low in the dish!) If we have moistened the dry food, when they come back later it might just be spoiled--that can result in stomach upset and diahrrea, to say the least.
Even in our humidity lately dry food gets spongy. Keep tabs on the outdoor cats especially. This isn't so much of a problem with inside cats.
The only time I ever moisten the dry food is when I have kittens that are just learning to eat. I want them to learn early on that their entire diet isn't going to consist of the beef, kidney, tuna, salmon offerings from cans so I do offer the dry kind from an early age! But I've had a couple kittens choke on particles of the hard dry food because they can't chew it so well yet. The one I thought I was gonna lose before I got the hard food out! So I do soak the dry food in milk or broth as they are learning to eat. But I only do a small portion that they will eat all at once. (LOL Of course, if I do have too much, Mama always comes and cleans up the left overs!)
As soon as they have learned how to chew and have some strength in their tiny jaws I stop softening the dry food.
Take care all.
Did somebody here or in other thread have warned something about faxes?
I think I read something but I don't remember.
If anybody remembers about it or know about some kind of danger associated with faxes and cats, please let me know!
you have such a great heart for giving this cat the opportunity of a better life out of that lab.
I just can imagine the quality of life she could have had in past, I am so sorry to know and also realize that cruelty exist and how inhumane people could be.
Please let her in, definitely I agree with Screamingbell B. there are many risks for cats outside and in this case, she is not accustomed to "everything"...
I will pray for her (any sweet name you will give her), for you in this new experience and for all the cats and other animals in the whole world that could be in the conditions, your cat was.
When I find a tick on my cat, I get it off with that pen thing you screw them off with. And then I put some foodgrade hydrogenperoxide on the wound, to kill off whatever its there. Because ticks can have that bacteria..borellia, is that the name? And that can make both humans and animals very very sick if one doesnt discover its that bacteria in the system.
I know alot of stuff myself...
Commercial cat food make them sick, yes. Immuno-system gets bad. I gave mine commercial cat food and he got mange mites....
That type mange mites they always have in their skin, and if immuno-system gets bad, they "take over".
But I did something smart. I got dried cod powder from health shop, and I have chlorella here since I use it now and then myself. Great superfood it is...
So I had one tablespoon cod powder and one capsule chlorella in the cat food, with some water so the cat food became like a "stew". And I got cat food from zoo shop....funny thing is that it actually got cheaper. He cant eat as much of the cat food when the cod powder and chlorella is mixed in it plus some water...I got one can cat food to last 4-5 days instead only 1-2 days.
Didnt I write about this one in another post? Oh no, I didnt..I told my mother that.
Anyway...if he get that mange mite thing again, I will definitely not get that poisonic sh** from the vet. I am going to buy a spray from these people:
There is also people out there who make homemade cat food to get away from that sh** in the shops. There is also companies who sell organic cat food too.
Sorry for saying a not nice word, lol....but I have gone so tired of all the chemicals in food (so I get as much as possible organic food), chemicals in products (so I get only pure natural products for anything in this house), and chemicals in stuff for pets (so thats why I give him the cod powder and chlorella so he get at least nutrition and also detoxify through chlorella..its the best one to use for anyone...dogs, cats...).
Microwave oven...lol....it should say enough when I tell that Russia banned microwave oven in the 70s after they saw that more and more people got colon cancer.
i truly did not think that anyone was allowed to use cats/dogs in laboritories anymore!
What a wonderful person you are.
I have not had a pet from that kind of situation before, but I think I would maybe put kitty in one room at a time - maybe with a small box or kitty igloo, so if she feels panicky with "space" she can retrest into a "safe place"(where she feels less threatened). Once she is used to one room, open a door to the next room and so on. I would keep the small box/kitty igloo available, as she may never fully be able to cope with "all that space"
Love to you and your kitty.
The best tip I learned while working at a vet's office is that flea collars are a BAD thing. I know they're cheaper and easier to get, but I have seen many many cats & dogs become very sick. They may be lethargic, vomiting, or have diarrhea or just not be themselves. But by taking off the flea collar they get better in just a day or two.
It's much safer for your pet and more effective to go with a Frontline or Revolution product from you vet's office and NOT from PetMeds. We received an article at the vets office that these meds were placebos packaged in the same box. So for peace of mind talk to your vets!
I only have a 2 long haired cats, Ebby and Maggie, so I am no expert on how often to brush them, but I can add this, if you are not using a slicker brush, buy one, as all of mine like being brushed with it. There are a couple different sizes. I like the bigger one.
As for the Max cat, I also use that. I buy the regular Chicken or salmon, and also the hairball variety which they seem to prefer. I have not had much of a hair ball problem after using this.
Although I only give the hairball remedy *Malt flavor* when needed, I don't think once a week would actually hurt. I will give it when I see them hacking, and if I don't see a hair ball come up I will give it the next day again to make sure it comes up.
Regular brushing should cut back on it, plus the Max hairball food. I am an as needed person, but either way it wouldn't hurt.
Hi I adopted two long haired cats from a local shelter and whenever I need to brush them, I need my daughter to hold them or they run away. I try to hold them and cuddle with them after but they just want to get far far away! Is there anything I can do to make their grooming sessions more pleasant? Also, how many times a week should I be giving them hairball formula? My mom says once a week, but I thought I only needed to give it to them when they started hacking... they eat Max Cat food and I have only caught Brat coughing once in the month I have had them....
I don't think too many of us has acquired a cat from such a horrible life in a cage for all his or her life. I would not want to get this cat wanting to be out doors, as you can read on so many of the posts the cats that are now missing.
I guess if your cat was in and use to your house for a long time, taking her out with you while you are out there watching her would be ok, but I wouldn't do it any time soon or you will stand a chance of seeing this cat vanish, only the next life might be more terrible than the last.
Take one step at a time, and see what happens while she is learning to get close to you and her new home. Thanks for taking this Kitty.
I just use the Pill gun, and I have a strong left grip on the skin behind their necks. I do have a problem with some of my cats that have no loose skin behing their necks, so there is nothing for me to grab.
My dor frames are beautiful. The cats designed them . LOL
When one of our cats needs a pill, I try at first to smush it up into a piece of bologna, ham, or cheese. If that doesn't work (& before the pill discinergrates), I quickly wrap the cat up in a towel, hold the top of the towel in my left hand, pin my kitty to the counter, and with my right hand, open it's mouth and put the pill in. I stroke their chin until they swallow it. (I don't like to "puff" in their face because I usually jump, too!)
#2 - When one of my kitties are scratching on a door frame, I use warm water in a squirt bottle (the kind you use to water plants with). After only a few times, I just point the bottle at them and you should see their faces! *LOL* Then they book ass and peek at me from underneath something. Then, it's PLAYTIME!!!!!! (That means if you are sitting on the couch or on your bed, you'd best grab a pillow to protect your lap!)
Hi Debbie, thanks for the tip!
I've tried the leash and a harness for small dogs, but she gets furious when I tried to put that on her...
My mother's house have a big backyard and that's perfect for TITA, now I need to convince my mother...
TITA isn't that young and that fast as she was (she is now 12) so I worry about her...
If your mom thinks Tita must go out for a walk make sure she is using a harness & leash. Halloween didn't exactly love it at first, but now it's second nature to her. She knows where it's kept & gets really excited when we open the drawer. She also stands on the table & paws at the drawer when she wants to go out.
Your tip of the day. If your cats like Hills Science diet, and they eat the adult feline maintenance, don't buy the light right now because it has 10% more food in the bag.
I had just enough money this week to get them a bag, as I had a coupon for 5.00 off for the stuff, and I saw the light that has 10% more and bought it.
My cats hate it. Funny thing is that recently I was saying that I don't buy the weight control food because it would seem to me to have less taste. Boy oh Boy was I right.
I know my cat should be kept in, it's safer for her, but here the problem is my mother who keeps thinking TITA needs go for a walk outside
I think I need a tip for convincing mothers...
Thank you Erin for your post about water... I bought a water fountain at Petsmart to make KUKIKI drink from it and not from the faucet, but... KUKIKI didn't change her mind and the water fountain is just another "thing" in her room
I use the black utility tubs for my scoopable litter, and after a while they get worn on the bottom, so when it is time to empty it, which I don't do often since it is scoopable, I spay them with cooking spray, and the scoop slides across the bottom much easier, and I have what feels like a Nice new litter box.
Also, for those of you who feed outside cats, or even many cats in another room, and feed several kinds of dry food, the large fruit cups from the convenient stores work well to carry different dry foods in all at one time.
Also, the large fruit cup is also a nice glass to put in the kitchen sink for fresh water.
Your tips and information was very good, and I appreciate you sharing this with us. We can all learn from each other here.
By the way, I think we not only have some of the fattest cats, but we also have some of the fattest humans too. LOL Well, large boned anyway. hehe
You must have a mighty loud click to get a pride to respond to it. Are you sure you don't make a face to go with it. Maybe do a little foot stomping at the same time??? LOL
The funny thing is that I have a couple of big mouths in the back room, and when they get started arguing, all I have to do is walk out there and look at all of them without saying a word, and they stop.
This sometimes works in one of my yards, but not always, as Big loses his temper all the time. He mouths off more than anything, and sometimes I have to get the hose out and start spraying it close to him. He will generally just move away. If he starts fighting, then a big piece of card board between them helps break it up too.
TIP 7? You should have 1 litter box per 2 cats if strictly indoor, however, if they use outdoor facilites they should still be able to have access to a litter box.
TIP 8: Various water bowls throughout the house whether they eat wet or dry food but especially if they are on a dry food diet! 2 water bowls in your house for one cat...a quiet room and the room they occupy most frequently.
TIP 8: Please remember, cats are NOT humans and we are NOT cats. As many personalities as they have and as much as they pull on our heartstrings we are different, you will do them an injustice if you think otherwise. The varieties of food out there FOR them is because of US, the pet market KNOWS how we are and thus sell all those types of food. Cats and especially dogs do not HAVE to eat as much as we feed them...and sorry to say (and remember I'm American, I just don't live there right now) but Americans have the most obese pets of all countries put together! So, please a FAT cat is NOT a happy cat (forget what Garfield says)!!! And please, don't be like my brother and say you just have a BIG muscular cat...come on 'get real' (like Dr. Phil says)...
Ok, and this is to something I said on another post. Someone mentioned that they were told / heard that a dry food diet owes to kidney failure in cats. I am studying the urinary system right now (just finished the GIT) and it is not true, but what the dry diets tend to do and these are NOT the veterinary diets like Eukanuba / Iams, Hill's, etc...but the store bought stuff like Whiska's and what not. Those brands tend to increase the likely hood of causing crystals / stones in the urinary tract. Not necessarily kidney failure although I guess in an older cat that could stem from it...anyway, what is believed to be the culprit in this is that those diets that are not regulated by the veterinary community do not have a good balance of some of the minerals, i.e. Magnesium and phosphorus to name a couple. This imbalance owes to the possibility of crystal formation as well as these cats are not receiving adequate water intake. It is also more common in the males than the females only because of the males anatomy. So, remember water must always be available to them (both sexes) at all times and preferrably fresh daily! Cats are very finicky with water, you might find they prefer it in plastic or glass or steel...a glass, a bowl, or mug...some like to drink out of the planter bottom and this is ok provided you haven't recently fertilized your plant...investigate...
Ok, I will really stop now....sorrrrrrryyyyyyyy
Alrighty, just some responses and tips to your comments...
NO to declawing! It's a form of mutilation as is clipping ears; I'm not so against docking tails because that occurs (if legally done) before they are 5 days old, and well, it's forgotten afterward. Although I do believe some suffer from phantom tail syndrome...but on top of what was psychologically mentioned about declawed cats I have found they become 'mouthy'...biters actually...and that would make sense as their primary defense mechanism has been removed, it is probably VERY stressful on them especially since a lot of people do it when the cats are older and have already gotten used to them. My TIP: get a squirt bottle or can with pennies in it or SOMETHING and when they attempt to scratch where they are not supposed to then scold them, even a loud clap of your hands and NO! works...if you are too lazy to train them (and believe me cats ARE trainable) then you shouldn't own one! TIP 2: Start getting them used to having their nails clipped from the get go. If you get them as kittens, my word by the time they are a few months old bam! you have a cat that can have it's nails clipped whenever! If you're nervous about doing it, have a vet or vet tech / nurse show you how. It's really easy peezy, a heck of a lot easier than doing dog nails! My 1 year old doesn't mind at all. The 3 year old only starting having his cut at about 1 1/2 and his cool with it now. And my 9 week old has had them cut twice and already seems to be doing ok with the process! So try it!
The advice on spay / neuter, yep! Best thing all around!!!
TIP 4: For long haired cats, start grooming (brushing) their coats when they are kittens, don't wait (especially Persians, they are horrific creatures when they are older and you try to brush them). Preferrably they should be brushed 2 x daily; I promise you they matt quickly. I have seen on more then one occasion the solution to someone's matted cat was shaving nearly all their fur off, very similar to the cat above's picture!
TIP 5: YES, get shelter cats, if someone else couldn't be responsible enough to spay / neuter their cats and now the shelter's are full, then let it be us that serve them right....(don't worry, I know not all pets are at shelters due to irresponsibleness, there are unforeseen circumstances whereby pets go there otherwise...)
TIP 6: Dandruff in a cat is usually a) central heating in the winter b) brand of cat food - tip: add a light coating a wheat germ oil to dry food if a commercial store brand i.e. Friskies, Whiskas...
Ok, I'll shut up now, sorry....
If you are soaking dry food in water it really isn't necessary to do, as most cats like their dry food crunchy. It get soft when the humidity gets to it if it is outside, and it isn't crunchy and fresh anymore, so then I will throw it out.
One reason why I put the cans in a bucket of hot water is to bring out the broth that is thicken when at room temperature. It is the first thing that the cats go after. I don't warm it in the hot summer though.
If you are feeding your older cat canned food, most of them make one for seniors at no extra cost. Kind of mention it to your Mom.
My kitties never bit my chin but during the night when I would sleep they would lick the bridge of my nose until it was raw and often a bit bloody. It was a sign of affection because they did it to my chihuahua too, so I never reprimanded them for it and they don't do much anymore.
Because I have three cats with a large age different I have to feed my older cat whent he younger two are out of the house. I don't warm up their food but I do soak it in water for a little while before I feed them. Not a whole lot of water, just a little bit that I pour into their dish to make it softer. With food for my older cat I soak it in canned cat food just for him. I really wish my mum would listen to me and buy him some special food for older cats but she's convinced that he doesn't need it... Boadie is actually older than I am. I started doing this after one of my chihuahua's molar teeth broke, I mean it split into pieces and fell out so to me it's a precaution. Hopefully I can get my mum to start caring a little more about the diet of my pets. *Grumble*
Also, long hallways and clothes that slide well on hard floors when little kitties are chasing each other around the house often require the door at the end of the hallway to be open in case they can't stop themselves in time.
I had a cat who liked to bite my chin, also. I just always cuddled him in my arms facing outward. It was easy to snuggle my head up beside his and give him lots of affection, but it saved my nerves, kept him in my good graces, and made him very happy.
My older cat has a little of dandruff and in some places in her body her hair becomes sticky like with bubble gum. It is impossible to release the hear with a brush because it hurts her. The vet told me that it could be because she loves go and stare under cars and specially hot cars because of the warm temperature. I hate that because it's dangerous.
The thing is (the vet said) that the heat dries her skin producing the dandruff and the sticky condition is because oil from the engines.
Also with the years her hair is becoming less and less soft, do you think it's because of her age? She is 12.
What do you think?
If I came at any of my cats with a vacuum, they'd leave home! I did see a guy blow dry his Persian after a bath, and the cat loved it. Some people are lucky!
My garage kitty (yes, she prefers to live in the garage) likes moist food; however, our indoor kitty only eats dry. but I make sure he's got plenty of water. that seems to help.
Wow, if I gave MAx bacon grease I wouldn't be able to go near the litter box for days!!
He has kind of dry skin, too; it comes and goes, but I think a lot of it might be age. Poor Max, he has digestion issues and can't eat anything but kibble anymore, or he gets Montezuma's Revenge. I don't think the dry bothers him, but he does have dandruff. I wish I could just lotion him up like a human!
Some people use the linatone. I think that is what it is called. I bought it years ago but never followed up using it. Some people also use fish oil capsules. I have one with lots of flea dirt all the time, and yet I never see all that many fleas. He has large scaly dandruff too.
Believe it or not, I am getting him under control with a shop vac. He loves to be vaccuumed. I started out with just tilting the hose side ways over his back, and his hairs would stand up, and he followed me around because he liked it, and I can even do it full force, and his flea dirt and scales are coming right off of him. The vaccuum took the paint off my wall, so it is powerful. I am getting ready soon to place an order for advantage.
my cat harry has dry skin & some dandruff. the last time i took him to the vet they said that maybe it was from fleas, but i know for a fact that there are no fleas. i switched his food to the more expensive kind (thinking there were more nutrients & oils in there) but he still has dry skin. My soon to be mother-in-law had suggested giving him some bacon grease? does anyone else have any suggestions? thanks for your help! peace~ sarah f.
My kitty Max has always been affectionate and has a lot of "cattitude." I've learned over the years (he's amost 14 now) that if he bites too hard (ever had them accidentally get your nostrils? OW!), he's trying to tell me his food bowl's empty.
I've also found when my cats bite or play a little too rough with me, often just saying "Ow, ow!" in a plaintive voice makes them stop and start licking instead; they know they've hurt me and they're apologizing. It's so cute.
It is time to get her spayed. You mentioned heat, so get her spayed, and she won't be so aggressive.
Yes, a nip on the chin is a kitty kiss, but if she is biting too hard she might be going into heat.
They get vocal, and they scooch around with their rear ends up in the air, and they call the toms from the neighborhood.
Good luck to you, and make the appointment. You and she will be a lot happier.
Instead of giving one...
I need help, my kitty is about 8 months old and she always bites my chin... well, my other cat never did that, so I was worried about this.
I was told that it was an affectionate sign and it was ok then, but now it is just to much, it hurts and sometimes when she bites me she doesn't release me... it really hurts and there is blood sometimes, and I don't know if this is normal
She has been acting a little agresive and I don't know if this could be because she is experiencing her "heats".
Any tip or advice will be welcomed.
I feel sad, because I don't feel right with her, I am afraid of beign bitten or scratched.
I did the hot spot skin medication,baths,flea spray,fle drops, 2-in-1 shampoo conditioner.even bought differnt food. you name it and I tryed it. its a wonder that my cat didn't go bald from all of that....(LOL)... the only thing I didn't change was her litter.So that was the next step besides the vet. Well changing the litter worked. She stoped eating her hair, over grooming and the swors she got from doing this healed up. It did take a little bit of time, but she now has hair....yaaaa... good luck
Have you checked for fleas or mites? Maybe he has an allergy to something too. I have a cat that has bald legs now, but he doesn't chew it. I think I read that it has something to do with endocrine alopecia or something like that.
It sounds like your cat is itchy from something, so you have to figure out what it is that is causing him to itch. Maybe you can find a bad tasting spray at petsmart that he won't like the taste of. I have some sprays here for hot spots, and maybe you could try something like that.
A lot of veterinarians are begining to refuse to do declaws, unfortunately the owners will threaten to dump the cat at a shelter if the Veterinarian won't do it. Some people are just jerks and won't stop till they find someone to do it. Some people think that is part of getting a kitten, to have it "fixed" and declawed.
I know these things from personal experience of working for several different animal hospitals. I had the opportunity to work for a holistic Veterinarian for 5 years. She was against doing declwas but would give in every once in a while. I hated helping her with them. It is a disgusting practice.
I never put cat food in the fridge. I use the hot water in the bucket for cans that are still in the cases.
I have no reason to put food in a fridge, as there are so many cats here, that someone will eat it. I do that to make it slightly warm, and to bring out the broth. I find that it is the best way to do that, and the cats love the broth more than anything.
Well, during the winter, when it's cold, if oyu have an electric heating blanket on your bed, if you turn it on just to level 6 or lower, cats go crazy. Especially my cat, Spookers, she'll walk up to my bed, jump on it, and get under hte covers and the heating blanket with me. It's soooo adorable, my dogs do the same thing.
The best tip I can give is to get your animals fixed. The other is get your animals from a shelter. Rescue animals seem to know and understand that you've taken the time to save them from a terrible fate.
I have a shop vac that I use that has a hose attachment. When I go out to the utility room to vaccuum the rug in there, I sometimes run the hose over the cats back. I start out doing it half way with the hose, so not too much sucction on them, and then I might do it with more suction.
Anyway, it seems that my cat Buster with the worse case of dandrift and flea dirt seems to like it. He followed me around the back room and couldn't get enough of being vaccuumed. I parted his fur when I was done, and no scaly stuff or dirt left on him. I was shocked.
Of course when I vaccuumed the wall it pulled the paint off, so all of his loose fur and dandriff and flea dirt was gone. If there were flea eggs, they are gone too.
I was laying on the couch the other night, and another good tip came to me, but I was too tired to come back to the computer, and now it is GONE.
Thanks for the tip about the spaghetti sauce. I have been heating it up in there, and not realizing the taste was changing.
I think it would be better to not give the skins, and give the chicken. I read not to give the skins, but don't remember what the problem was. I have given a little of the skins with the chicken when I gave them the kernals Kentucky fried chicken, because that is where the flavor is, but as a rule, I cook the boneless chicken in a pan for them, and pan fry it with nothing.
I do add some water as the juices come out to stop it from burning, and give it a nice color.
My cats eat their cat food, but they also get some human food too, and they like to try whatever it is that we are eating. I know that human food alone does not have all of their vitamins, so that is why they get cat food too.
Oh yeah, and after I am done with 3 huge frying pans full of chicken, I get my scizzors out and cut strips for them, and then it is pig out time. hehe AND, I always snitch a piece or two myself. That is some pretty good cat food if you ask me. hehe
I had also read that microwave food contributes to high cholersterol in humans. I still use it though. LOL It is too convenient for me to give it up. I did stop heating the cats food in there though, and it did heat unevenly, and did not bring out the broth like the hot water does.
The hot water also lets me drink my coffee without guilt too, as I have to be doing SOMETHING while the babies food is heating up. hehehehe
Ok, I did find a website that has a study in it on microwaved food and how it changes the molecular structure of the food, but it also states that processed pet food is the main cause of illness and premature death.
I dont know how much I believe this but hey...
If your interested in the website it is a holistic health site for people and animals
It is healthier for your cat if you put the can in hot water to warm it up. The microwave does something to the food that isn't good. I'm not exactly sure what it does though. It has something to do with molecules.
Mine like their food warmed too, but I do it by putting the cans in hot water, and it brings out the broth too.
Our three all get the same dry food - individual bowls of Purina Indoor Cat Formula - so that part doesn't matter.
BUT, I used to drive myself crazy - or the cats did - trying to figure out who liked what in the canned food (Fancy Feast - 62Million varieties, I think).
I finally got smart: since they're all fed at the same time in individual bowls (different ones for canned food), I just open three different flavors and the kits have a buffet. It's not only fun to watch, they like it, too! I use whatever flavors they are currently favoring - none last too long.
Each starts at her/his own bowl for about 90 seconds, then it's like someone blows a whistle or somthing: each shifts one bowl to the left. They do this until everyone has sampled every bowl. then they settle down to seriously eat. Sometimes they actually share a bowl!
Works for us!
furry, fun, free, fine felizine - http://www.catnipchronicles.com
I recently posted this, but will post it again. I just remembered about this when Jimmy went to get some of the cats in.
He shined the beam across the yard, and when Boomer saw it he raced all the way to the door, and in he came chasing the red dot. It works great
The best tip I can give is never let your kitty know that you aren't kidding when you say he's the boss. Bella reads right through that one though, maybe someone else will have better luck!!!
I will start it off. My favorite tip is the one for bringing the jiuce out of canned cat food.
I have a big bucket that has a lid, and in the morning I fill it with very hot water, and add my cans to it, and then put the lid on.
I go and drink one or 2 cups of coffee in the living room, and when I am done I go out to the kitchen to start feeding the cats.
By now when I open up their cans, there is all of the broth that the cats love more than anything, and the food is warmed to a nice temperature.
I don't do this in the summer, but it is nice during the winter and fall, and even into part of the spring.