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Groups > Custom Jewelry > Discussions > Topic: Metal Jewelry Making
Topic: Metal Jewelry Making

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Jana M.	Metal Jewelry Making January 08, 2007 1:39 AM From about.com from Tammy Powley Welcome to your first lesson on metal fabrication. Since this e-course is designed with the beginner jewelry maker in mind, we are going to start with some very, very basic information. Scroll down to learn what metal fabrication is, the tools you'll need to get started, and jewelry equipment suppliers who sell what you'll need. What is Metal Fabrication? Find out what fabrication is and how you can use fabrication techniques to make jewelry from metal plate and wire. Metal Jewelry Fabrication Tools Learn about a few of the tools you'll need to get started. Fabrication Tool and Equipment Suppliers You need the right tool for the job when it comes to metal fabrication. Here is a list of vendors who sell all kinds of tools and equipment for making metal jewelry. [ send green star]
Jana M.	Different metals January 08, 2007 2:38 AM From about.com Gold----------Folklore and Facts Gold is believed to have the powers of healing, protection, wisdom, money, and success. When worn, it elevates your personal power. In ancient Mexico, it was linked to the powers of the Sun. In the middle ages, gold tools were used while collecting herbs to make their powers stronger. Pure gold is too soft to use for most items, especially jewelry which receives a lot of wear and tear. So, it is often combined with other metals, such as copper, to give it added strength. Pure gold is called 24kt, while most gold jewelry is in either 18kt, 14kt, or 10kt gold. If you have a gold chain that is considered 18kt gold, then this means the gold is 18 parts gold and six part of another metal. The melting point of gold ranges from 1380 degrees F to 2732 degrees F. Jewelers like working with gold because, though it is a heavy metal, it is easy to form. There also isn’t much to polishing this metal because it does not oxidize. Usually a quick rub with a polishing cloth is all that is necessary. Often jewelry is also gold-filled or gold-plated. Gold-filled is a gold plating that is either soldered, brazed, or welded onto another metal. To be considered gold-filled, a plating must constitute at least 1/20th of the metal in the article. Gold-plated or overlay, also called vermeil, is most often 10kt or 14kt gold bonded onto either sterling silver or a base metal. This overlay only needs to be about 120 micro inches of gold over the metal. Silver-------some silver tidbits Silver was once thought more precious than gold. It is referred to as the metal of the moon and some believe it has power over emotions, the psychic mind, love, and healing. This is a very soft metal, so it is often mixed with an alloy like copper. Sterling silver originally was created in an area in Germany called Easterling. So that’s where the word sterling came from. To be sterling sliver, the metal is made up of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Pure silver, aka Fine Silver (.999), will melt at 1761 degrees F (961 degrees C), while sterling melts at 1434 degrees F (779 degreees C) and the flow point is 1655 degrees F (902 degrees C). Coin silver melts at a slightly lower temperature than sterling because it has more copper alloy in it; usually any where for 10 to 20 percent of it is an alloy. Platinum Symbol: Pt Melting Point: 1774 degrees C & 3225 degrees F Specific Gravity: 21.4 Hardness: 4-4.5 Originally, platinum was discovered by the Spanish explorers in Columbia, South America in 1538. They called it platina because it looked similar to silver (called Plata). Believe it or not, at one time, people didn’t know what to do with platinum. They used it for pots and pans. It didn’t become a popular jewelry metal until the early 1900s. Then during World War II, the U.S. government banned the use of platinum in jewelry making, and white gold was used instead. However, it has become popular again for a number of reasons. First, it is a very dense white metal that resists tarnishing. Platinum jewelry has little alloy in it, usually only 10%, so it is considered hypoallergenic. There are six metals which belong to the platinum family: platinum palladium rhodium ruthenium iridium osmium All these metals require oxygen to be mixed with the fuel when melting since they have such a high melting point. They resist tarnishing and do not require flux when soldering. Metals in this group can also be cast, but because of their high melting point, a special investment must be used. Today, most platinum used in jewelry in mined in Russia which controls the amount minded (much like the diamond industry). A large percentage of platinum is used in jewelry making. However, it is also used in other industries such as the medical industry and the automotive industry. [ send green star]
Jana M.	from about.com January 20, 2007 3:06 PM Using a Jewelry Saw Many jewelry fabrication projects reqire that you saw on metal. Therefore, a jewelry saw can be an important tool. However, using the correct size blade for your jewelry saw is critical. Tips for Filing Metal Here are some tips to help you file metal successfully. [ send green star]
Jana M.	January 20, 2007 3:09 PM Fabricated Toe Ring Make a toe ring using metal plate and hand tools. This technique can also be used to make a cuff bracelet. Easy Cuff Bracelet You'll be amazed at how easy this cuff bracelet will be to make. Some metal sheet and a few hand tools are all you need. [ send green star]
Jana M.	January 20, 2007 3:21 PM Hammers for Metal Jewelry Making Find out how and why you need these hammers in your tool box or at your work bench you are making metal jewelry. Anvil vs. Block for Making Jewelry Anvils and metal blocks are both pieces of equipment used by jewelry makers, both metalsmiths and wire workers, but when do you use one over the other? [ send green star]
Jana M.	Wire Rings January 25, 2007 5:42 PM Here are some simple rings made with wire. Square Design Wrap Ring Wrap style rings are adjustable. This allows you to wear them on fingers as well as toes. Wrap Toe Ring A little round wire and a few minutes of your time and you can make this toe ring. Bead/Dangle Ring Make a ring with a bead in the center or dangle three beads instead. Curly Wire & Bead Ring Get some immediate gratification with this fun project. Free Form Ring Make a free form ring using wire and some hand tools. [ send green star]
Jana M.	January 25, 2007 5:45 PM Paddle Earrings I used some 16 gage sterling wire to make these pieces that work great as findings for a pair of earrings. [ send green star]
Jana M.	April 20, 2007 3:29 PM Fabricated Geometric Necklace A little silver plate, a few beads, and an inch or two of wire is all you need to make this geometric necklace. [ send green star]
Jana M.	Metal Working Tool August 20, 2007 1:57 AM From about.com By Tammy Powley Two-Hole Metal Punch How many times have you found yourself in a situation while making jewelry where you need to punch a hole or maybe a few holes in some metal? Even if you don't normally work with metal, this can happen now and then when you are working with pre-fabricated jewelry components. There are a number of ways to make a hole in apiece of metal. You can use a drill, such as a hand-held drill or drill press. In fact, I'm a big fan of drill presses. However, sometimes you just need one little hole and it's not that convenient to drag out a lot of equipment, so that's when a little tool like this Two-Hole Metal Punch can really come in handy. I purchased the tool pictured from jewelry tool suppliers. According to the information on the Dick Blick web site, this tool can "cut3/32" or 1/16" holes in silver, copper, plastic, or any soft metal up to 14 gauge. I like these because they are easy to use and small enough to fit inside a tool box. I've seen them range in price from $12 - $20. [ send green star]
Jana M.	Soldering and fusing February 23, 2008 6:08 AM From about.com Have you been thinking of picking up the torch and adding soldering to your list of jewelry skills? Here are some resources to help you get started. Silver Wire Fusing This is a new book review of a technique that I've heard about before but honestly, until now, have read very little about. I think it has some major potential for metal clay folks as well as wire workers. Fusing is a technique which involves heating the metal to the point of almost melting, so that the metal sort of melts together. In this article, it talks only about fusing fine silver, but I've used fusing for copper and for sterling silver as well. Learn to Solder Follow these step by step procedures to teach yourself how to solder metal jewelry. What Type of Soldering Torch? In this article, I discuss the use of the proper type of torch for soldering jewelry, explaining metal temperatures and fuel requirements. I also offer lots of excellent resources to help beginners learn to solder. The melting temperature of solder is lower than the melting temperature of metal, which this article doesn't really talk about. It also doesn't talk about all the different fuels available. For example, at my school, we all have a torch at our bench, and it is fueled by natural gas and oxygen (which I prefer). At school, we also use acetelene, but this should be avoided if possible, as it is a very dirty gas. However, it is good for casting, because it gets alot hotter than our bench torches, so we can melt metal at a much faster rate. [ send green star]

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