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Nutmeg: A Spice With a Secret That Isn’t So Nice

  • by
  • February 27, 2015
  • 5:30 pm
Nutmeg: A Spice With a Secret That Isn’t So Nice

Editor’s note: This is a Care2 favorite, brought back by popular demand. It was originally published on December 9, 2012. Enjoy!

It’s a spice whose aroma evokes warm memories of the holidays for many — baked into pumpkin pies, kneaded into sausages and sprinkled atop mugs of eggnog. It has a pungent, earthy and slightly sweet taste, making it versatile for use in a variety of foods and beverages. You can find it just about anywhere these days and especially this time of year. But that wasn’t always the case, as Allison Aubrey of NPR recently reminded us.

Until the 18th and 19th centuries, nutmeg was a lot harder to come by. Indigenous to the Banda islands, part of the Moluccas (the Spice Islands) of Indonesia, this was also once the only place in the world that nutmeg grew. And once European spice traders learned of its existence, they began to battle for exclusive rights to the spice.

In the early 17th century, the Dutch East India Company (VOC) seized the islands from the Portuguese and moved to monopolize the trade with what Oliver Thring, writing for the Guardian, described as “paranoid brutality, banning the export of the trees, drenching every nutmeg in lime before shipping to render it infertile, and imposing the death penalty on anyone suspected of stealing, growing or selling nutmegs elsewhere.” The Dutch, in fact, perpetrated a massacre.

When some native islanders dared protest, the head of the VOC “ordered the systematic quartering and beheading of every Bandanese male over the age of 15. The population of the Banda islands was around 15,000 when the VOC arrived. 15 years later, it was 600.” An entire population decimated, and for what? A bit of flavoring for food?

Nutmeg wasn’t just a spice, though. It was also used as an incense as well as a medicine that was supposed to cure stomach ailments, headaches and fever. It was even thought to ward off plague. At one point in the 1300s, a pound of nutmeg cost seven fattened oxen.

At any rate, the Dutch clearly wanted the monopoly on nutmeg, which it just about had but for one nutmeg-producing island held by the British, called Run. After decades of skirmishes, the two companies agreed to a swap in the mid-17th century. In handing over Run to the Dutch, the British got a trading post out west that we now know as Manhattan.

In 1769, a French horticulturist named Pierre Poivre managed to smuggle some nutmeg from the Banda islands to Mauritius, ending the Dutch monopoly at last. The British East India Company brought the tree to Penang, Singapore, India, the West Indies and Grenada, which is now the second largest producer of nutmeg.

What people do for food — or, I should say, what people do to make money on food. To a degree, the Dutch East India Company is not unlike today’s food corporations, whose pursuit of profits comes at considerable cost to people and planet. But the story of nutmeg has come a long way. As sordid as it once was, today there’s a nostalgia for nutmeg as a spice for the holidays, and we might as well enjoy it.

 

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835 comments

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4:15AM PST on Mar 2, 2015

Thanks for posting this interesting info! Must admit we use a dash of Nutmeg in our cooking, and couldn't imagine my Bread and Butter Pudding without Nutmeg on top!

9:55PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Thanks for sharing again. Anyone who is interested to know more should read the book "Nathaniel' s Nutmeg" - author's name escapes me - about what went on. A bloody business, the Spice Wars.

9:55PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Thanks for sharing again. Anyone who is interested to know more should read the book "Nathaniel' s Nutmeg" - author's name escapes me - about what went on. A bloody business, the Spice Wars.

6:08PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

thanks for the share again

5:34PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Interesting...didn't know nutmeg had such a complex history : ) It is a great spice..love it!

3:55PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Where would pumpkin pie spice be without nutmeg? TFS

1:56PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Bloody white imperialism... same goes for sugar, tabacco etc.
Luckily the Dutch have moved on, shame we can't say the same of the Aglosaxons (predominantly) who still proceed with the slaughter of indigenous people to get their hands on underground commodities which are mainly found on their ancestral lands ( which were seen as worthless for a long time).
Nothing has changed, except the commodities...

12:43PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

thanks

12:18PM PST on Mar 1, 2015

ty

9:27AM PST on Mar 1, 2015

Very informative, and horrifying.....what lengths people will go for gain.
A dash of nutmeg in the bread pudding does make it interesting!

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