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Good Scents: Natural Perfumes

posted by Melissa Breyer Apr 11, 2008 5:00 am
Good Scents: Natural Perfumes
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By Melissa Breyer, Producer, Care2 Green Living

Perfume must be the most ironic of gifts: Perfect pretty little bottles with perfect pretty little names, filled with sweet smelling petrochemicals. Did you know that 95 percent of the chemicals used in perfume are derived from petroleum, many of them quite toxic? Ick. This year give a gift that triggers delight, not rashes and asthma. Read on for more about the synthetic ingredients commonly used in perfumes and see our picks for all-natural alternatives.

You’d think that perfume would be made from what it smells like. A scent redolent of lilies must be made from lilies, right? Wrong. Modern perfumes are almost always made from synthetic fragrances that are most commonly synthesized from petroleum distillates.

In the late 19th century the first synthetic fragrance was created (from coal-tar) in a laboratory. Not only did this greatly expand the perfumer’s repertory of scents to work with, but it also democratized the availability of perfume by making it so much cheaper to produce. Very costly raw natural materials (like ambergris, musk and rare botanicals) that had been used to create luxury perfumes were now simply whipped up in the lab using dredged waste byproducts of the industrial revolution. It also allowed for the creation of scents that perfumers were unable to capture before–such as the smell of lilac and lily.

The science of fragrance is really rather mind-boggling. That petrochemicals can be manipulated into rapturous scent is an illusion worthy of Houdini. But magic aside, a 1991 study performed by the EPA found that numerous potentially hazardous chemicals are commonly used in fragrance, including acetone, benzaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, camphor, ethanol, ethyl acetate, limonene, linalool, and methylene chloride. According to Material Data Safety Sheets, when inhaled these chemicals can cause central nervous system disorders, dizziness, nausea, slurred speech, drowsiness, irritation to the mouth, throat, eyes, skin, and lungs, kidney damage, headache, respiratory failure, ataxia, and fatigue, among other things.

Another study found two groups of hazardous or potentially hazardous chemicals commonly used in perfumes: phthalates and synthetic musks. Since perfumes are applied to the skin, repeated exposure of relatively concentrated doses may contribute substantially to our overall exposure to these chemicals. And because of the high-volume use of these chemicals, they have become widely distributed through both the natural and the urban environment-endangering natural ecosytems while also further increasing our exposure to them.

The FDA does little to regulate the cosmetics industry, and “fragrance” is considered a trade secret and thus ingredient disclosure is not required. Only a handful of ingredients are banned and personal care products and cosmetics do not require approval or testing before hitting the shelves. Even so, according to the FDA fragrances are responsible for 30 percent of all allergic reactions. Many point to perfume as a very high-risk cosmetic product for those who suffer from asthma. And we always thought that perfume was supposed to make us feel good.

The good news is that there is an alternative–good old perfume made from natural materials. Tada! You won’t find herbs, grasses, flowers and spice on any EPA lists. Not only are natural perfume ingredients more in harmony with the body, but they are, well, natural.

One of the leading pioneers in contemporary all-natural perfume is Mandy Aftel. In her fascinating book Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume she describes natural essences as “compressed vitality” and notes, “We are bombarded by department store perfumes that shout their presence and linger monotonously and pervasively on the body and in the air, but the true magic of perfume eludes us. We have lost touch with what drew our kind to the smell of flowers and herbs in the first place, and with the rich and tangled history of our species and theirs.”

Natural Perfumes

Aftelier Perfumes: Stunning all natural perfumes from one of the most respected perfumers in the industry, Mandy Aftel.

Tsi-La Organics: This line of products are crafted in artisan size batches using only the world’s finest essential oils, active plant botanicals, rich exotic butters and organic ingredients.

Black Pearl Botanicals: Specializes in the art of crafting skin safe, healthy, gentle, radiant perfumes.

Homemade Perfume Formulas

Luscious Cream Perfume

Natural Scents for Your Type

Solstice Blend Bath and Body Blend

Essential Oils and DIY Supplies

White Lotus Aromatics
The Essential Oil Company
Sunrose Aromatic

More on Healthy Beauty Basics (76 articles available)
More from Melissa Breyer (171 articles available)

21 comments
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21 Comments       add a comment »
Jacqueline Jakle

So..who makes the safest fragrances?

Anya M.
  • Anya M. says
  • Apr 24, 2008 6:14 PM

Melissa, thank you for keeping an open mind and following through with Nantucket. Perhaps the person you spoke with at the company was confused or ill-informed, but most of the synths on the market are made from petroleum distillates, such as coal tar. I can't comment more on that, since I'm not a chemist.

Anya M.
  • Anya M. says
  • Apr 24, 2008 6:12 PM

Hi Dina
I am not sure where you got your information, but Guerlain scents are full of synthetics. They are fine high-end synthetics, but synthetics non the less.

Dina M.
  • Dina M. says
  • Apr 19, 2008 8:02 AM

That was great information, I learned alot and sent out this recipe to several friends.

As a former rep of Guerlain, the house of parfum from 1850-current. I learned they are one of the very few who do NOT use synthetics.
Their fragrances are so pure, you can spray your self as often as you wish (use some discretion! Not all fragrances are made from synthetics. And how nice to have a recipe to make for myself and friends.

Liberty Goodwin

It is good to see some discussion about the actual ingredients in a "natural" fragrance product. Too often such are laced with synthetic solvents and other ingredients that can be very hazardous to health. Be aware also that, though 100% essential oils are not unhealthy for most, many vulnerable persons, such as those with asthma or chemical sensitivies, may have negative health effects from any scent. For more on fragrance concerns and products info, visit: www.toxicsinfo.org/canary.htm It's my organization's website - Toxics Information Project (TIP) (We're non-profit and we don't sell any products).

Melissa Breyer

Hi Anya,
I spoke with Nantucket Natural Oils again, this is what they told me. The carrier oil they use in their perfumes is natural (almond) and their organic essential oils are natural, but that the perfume oils they use in their perfume are synthesized--although their site claims they are "natural." They said that there were no petroleum distillates used, at all, but could not tell me what the fragrance molecules were synthesized from. Since the intention of this article is about truly natural ingredients, I have removed the recommendation from the page. Thank you for your perseverance!

Anya M.
  • Anya M. says
  • Mar 28, 2008 12:36 PM

Hi Melissa:
I'm afraid the information you shared is incorrect. Natural ingredients means only from botanical, earth or sea sources. Nantucket Natural Oils uses synthetic oils. They may be making approximations of perfumes, but they are using oils made from petroleum, not plants.

Melissa Breyer

Just to clarify: Nantucket Natural Oils isn't selling the drugstore versions of the perfumes, what they do is make an appoximation of the scent using natural ingredients.

Annie Bond

fixed! sorry about that!--Annie

Anya M.

Nantucket Natural Oils are mostly synthetic, sorry to say, despite the name of the company. When you click on "natural perfumes" the dropdown menu contains many drugstore perfumes that are on the list of perfumes that contain synthetic musks, DEP, DPG, etc. http://www.greenpeace.org/raw/content/usa/press-center/reports4/perfume-an-investigation-of.pdf

The Natural Perfumers Guild http://naturalperfumersguild.com is the go-to source on the internet to find Professional Perfumers and Associates and Suppliers who carry Aromatherapy Perfumes made with only natural aromatics.

Those interested in natural perfumery may join a yahoo group I host where we discuss all aspects of natural perfumery: http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/NaturalPerfumery/

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Disclaimer: Care2.com does not warrant and shall have no liability for information provided in this newsletter or on Care2.com. Each individual person, fabric, or material may react differently to a particular suggested use. It is recommended that before you begin to use any formula, you read the directions carefully and test it first. Should you have any health care-related questions or concerns, please call or see your physician or other health care provider.

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