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Vermicomposting: Worms, Bins and How To Get Started

Three categories of vermicomposting bins

  • Non-continuous bins are undivided containers that start with a layer of bedding materials — shredded paper and the like — that line the bottom. Worms are added and organic matter for composting is added in a layer above the bedding. Another layer is added on top of the organic matter and the worms will start to compost the organic matter and bedding. This type of bin popular because it is small and easy to build, but unfortunately they’re more difficult to harvest because all the materials and worms must be emptied out when harvesting.
  • Continuous vertical flow bins use a series of trays stacked on top of one another. The tray on the bottom, using something like chicken wire as the base, is filled first in the manner described above (bedding, worms, organic waste ), but is not harvested when it is full. Instead, a thick layer of bedding is added on top and the tray above is used for adding organic material. When the worms finish composting the bottom tray, they head for more food and migrate to the tray above. When enough of the worms have migrated, the bottom tray can be collected with just a few straggling worms left behind (they can then go in the tray above). Because of the separate tray, these bins provide are easier to harvest.
  • Continuous horizontal flow bins use a similar structure to the vertical flow, but line up the trays horizontally instead.The bin is usually horizontally longer than the vertical version is tall, and is divided in half, usually by a large gauge screen of chicken wire. One half is used until it becomes full, then the other half is filled with bedding and organic matter (pictured below). Over time, the worms migrate to the side with the food and the compost can be collected. These bins are larger than a non-continuous system but still small enough to be used indoors, with the added bonus of being easier to harvest.

Vermicomposting: How to get started
When beginning a vermicomposting bin, start by adding moist bedding — things like shredded paper, dead leaves and other materials high in carbon (it’s should mimic the worms’ natural habitat, in dried leaves on a forest floor) — into the bin, and add the worms to their new home. Bedding is the living medium for the worms but also a food source, so it should be moist (something like a wrung-out sponge) and loose to enable the earthworms to breathe and to facilitate aerobic decomposition. Other common bedding materials can be used including newspaper, sawdust, hay, cardboard, burlap coffee sacks and peat moss.

Most vermicomposters avoid using glossy paper from newspapers and magazines, junk mail and shredded paper from offices, because they may contain toxins, which aren’t good for the system. Be wary of cardboard, as it cannot be used if it contains wax or plastic, which takes things like cereal boxes, and other boxes designed to hold food items, off the list.

Vermicomposting tips
A few tips: In warm climates, especially in the summer, keep the bin in the shade or away from midday direct sun — just like compost, it should stay moist. Quantities of kitchen waste added depends on the size of the worm population; at first, feed the worms approximately one-half their body weight in kitchen scraps a day at most. That is, if you have one pound of worms, feed them about 1/2 pound of kitchen scraps each day. When they become more established, you can feed them closer to their entire body weight, though it’s best to wait to add new food until the old food has been processed by the worms.

Troubleshooting odor and pests in vermiculture is similar to the same procedures used in composting; if the bin starts to stink, it’s probably because there is too much nitrogen (which comes from “greens,” which are things like grass clippings), so add some high-carbon “browns” (things like dead leaves and shredded paper), keeping the ratio the same as in conventional composting, about 30 parts carbon to one part nitrogen (see our piece on compost for more details on this). Rodents and flies are attracted by certain materials and odors, especially meat. This problem can be avoided by using a sealed bin, since the pests can’t get at it, though simply avoiding animal products, rather than relying on special containers, is probably the easier way to go.

More info on vermicomposting
Check out, and for more info, tips and tricks to vermiculture. For further info on TreeHugger, read how IKEA got worms, about Martha Stewart’s support of it, how it fights climate change, and watch it in action with Amy Youngs’ digestive table.

Planet Green is the multi-platform media destination devoted to the environment and dedicated to helping people understand how humans impact the planet and how to live a more environmentally sustainable lifestyle. Its two robust websites, and, offer original, inspiring, and entertaining content related to how we can evolve to live a better, brighter future. Planet Green is a division of Discovery Communications.

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6:25PM PDT on Aug 25, 2012

I have bend vermicomposting an composting for over 20 years now an have zero organic waste junk mail, newspaper, cardboard an all other organic waste all can go into my worm bins the only think made of paper that can't go into the worm bin is shiny paper I have three 3'X3' worm bins an I use all of the worm poop in my garden an house plants. If you want to get started in vermicomposting here is a great site to get you started lots of good people here that can help I can help all who want to get started in vermicomposting just email me here at care2 at or an feel free to pick my brain. NO SPAM PLEASE =^..^=

5:45AM PDT on Aug 23, 2012


1:14PM PDT on May 2, 2012

I think I want to do this when I grow up. Thanks!

11:56AM PST on Feb 24, 2012

I found a great how-to resource...the Best Place for Garbage by Sandra Wiese. It is not only an excellent source of information, it is also a fun and entertaining read. Check it out.

9:39AM PDT on Jul 5, 2010

We all need to get on this bandwagon. Can you think of the amount of garbage that will not be sent to the dump and how much less methane gas will be produced. This article should be sent to all senators and government agencies to open their eyes.

5:51PM PDT on Jun 24, 2010

Wow! This is great information for a beginner (that will be me soon, I hope.) I'm worried tho' that I'll kill the worms by doing it wrong.

The article refers to using sawdust. We use equine pine in our kitty boxes. Once it turns to powder we sift out the "gifts" and put the pine dust in the garden. Is this kitty-used dust appropriate for the worm composter???

12:47PM PDT on Jun 24, 2010

thanks a bunch for this's been half a year since i stumble across the idea of vermicomposting, yet find hard time locating for the nearest supplier of vermi worm to start with...

any help? i live in Limassol, Cyprus...
with many thanks...

12:45PM PDT on Jun 24, 2010

thanks a bunch for this's been half a year since i stumble across the idea of vermicomposting, yet find hard time locating for the nearest supplier of vermi worm to start with...

any help? i live in Limassol, Cyprus...
with many thanks...

7:15PM PDT on Mar 15, 2010


8:17PM PST on Mar 7, 2010

I started my own vermicompost.

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Disclaimer: The views expressed above are solely those of the author and may not reflect those of
Care2, Inc., its employees or advertisers.

people are talking

Cannot stop catalogs, I tried- recycle them.

This sounds just a bit too new agey for me, sorry.

All good. Thank you.


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